Exploracation

Cocoa Fe: Chocolate in Santa Fe

2012-03-01T11:43:00.001-08:00

In the classicchildren’s book, “Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory,” chocolate is made ina mysterious factory populated by tiny men running around who mix, stir, churnand occasionally sing about chocolate. The reality of cocoa and its origins inthe

U.S.

is far different than some Technicolor work of fiction, but none the lessentertaining. Cocoacomes from beans grown in certain parts of the world. How it came to NorthAmerica first began in South America.

Cocoa Then

To go back to its origins, when Spanish explorer Hernan Cortez arrived in Vera Cruz,

Mexico

in 1518 he found Montezuma and hisAztec subjects drinking large quantities of chocolate, more actual cocoa thanthe refined chocolate we know today. There were 12 species of the cocoa plantwhich grew on the languid shores of Mexico,and the Spanish fell in love with it, and, as Spainconquered everything in sight, cocoa beans were sent back to Spain wherethey were introduced to the Europeans for the first time.

17th Century Cocoa Cup

Therefore chocolate became an integral part of the Spanishway of life in the New World and as the Missions from Texasto New Mexico and California were established chocolate becamea considerable staple of everyday life. Missiondocuments record the important use of chocolate for prestigious guests and thepadres routinely drank hot chocolate first thing in the morning. Cocoa at that time wasalso a valuable commodity and many storage vessels had locks on them such asshown in these photos. In fact this storage jar and cocoa cup date from the 17^thcentury and are on display, along with a few other historical cocoa items atthe New Mexico Museum of History. People covet chocolatetoday, and clearly they did half a century ago.

17th Century Cocoa Storage Jar

Chocolate Now

These days chocolate isimbedded into our lives is a variety of forms: hot cocoa, bittersweet, andwhite chocolate, to powder sprinkled on tiramisu, to a rub for meats. In Santa Fe, New Mexico,there are four chocolate shops to visit and it’s always good to know you can gethand made chocolates, truffles and other cool cocoa-inspired treats whereveryou go. But, the most interesting representation of cocoa is a small shop, Kakawa, located in downtown Santa Fe. This formerresidence, now a store, creates individual chocolates, but most cool of allcreates what they call “authentic Meso-American and historic European chocolatedrinks.” Owner Tony Bennett (no, not thatTony Bennett) helms this six year-old concept. There are hardwood floorsand this space is homey and comfortable where folks hang out and drink cocoawhile checking email or just chatting. They roast their own red chiles used insome of the drinks (elixirs they call them) and make small batches ofchocolates, and use water, not cream, to mix into their drinks as this is morehistorically accurate.

Bag 'O Chiles For Roasting

They use agave nectar asopposed to sugar or corn syrup because is it not only healthier, but also representsthe historic reality of Mayan cultures who used agave plants in their cooking.Should you find yourself in Santa Fe,stop in to Kakawa, as they are located right downtown. Yes, the individualchocolates are very good, but I wanted to sample the drinks. Their “Zapoteca”is unsweetened cocoa, but not bitter, however it is thick and potent. Their“Chili” utilizes Ancho chilis, agave, Mexican vanilla and it hits your palatewith bittersweet, then the spicy chili kicks in and slowly takes over. If youthink of these drinks in terms of American hot cocoa, you’ll miss the point.These are sturdy drinks, thick and probably unlike what you’ve ever had before.And the cool thing is that you can, in a way, taste history since drinkingchocolate goes back at least 500 years!

Kakawa Owner Tony Bennett

There is actually a Santa Fe chocolate trail,a loose collection of four chocolate shops, not a trail really at all. But thepoint is that while in this historic city, one of the oldest cities in the

U.S.

,you can sample modern and historic iterations of chocolate. In fact, kind ofinteresting, When the Palace of the Governors was built in 1610 in downtown Santa Fe (and stillstanding mind you), it was only 92 years prior that Cortez was sipping hisfirst cocoa drink in Vera Cruz. Should you find yourself in Santa Fe, make it a point to stop in Kakawa,as they are located right downtown. You can also check out the other chocolateplaces: The Chocolate Smith, C.G.Higgins, and Todos Santos.

Tolearn about cocoa in Santa Barbara, Californiavisit: www.CervinsCentralCoast.blogspot.com,and enjoy your cocoa!

www.KakawaChocolates.com

Drink Historic Cocoa At Kakawa

Art According to Santa Fe

2012-02-14T13:15:00.000-08:00

Santa Fe, New Mexico is art central and there are more art galleries here vying for attention than college kids during spring break in Florida. But twice a year the Spanish Colonial Market arrives, heavy with emphasis on cultural identity and a respect for the past. So with a formidable arts community replete with contemporary perspectives already in place, why would you need a throwback to a centuries-old art form?

The answer is simple: heritage. The Spanish Market, begun in 1926, is held only two times annually, in the summer and winter, though the summer market is by far the most popular and, frankly, the best time to visit Santa Fe. The point of the market is to sustain the cultural and artistic heritage of local artists and it does this quite handily. Over 200 artists have booths lining multiple streets, and crowds are in excess of 50,000 over the weekend. The clear focus is what is called the Spanish Colonial Market, (though there is a contemporary artists section as well.) Many of these traditional artists, who must be at least one-quarter Hispanic, do not have galleries in the crowded confines of Santa Fe, which is already home to about 250 art galleries.

Retablos

So this makes an ideal time to meet these artists in person, talk to them about their work and find something you may not see in the traditional galleries. Since there is a focus on the artistic heritage of New Mexico, you’ll find a plethora of religious iconography; retablos, crosses, tinwork, carving, jewelry, all with spiritual connotations. Back in the day it was the santero, a maker of images of saints in either a three-dimensional carvings called bultos, or paintings on a substrate, typically wood, known as a retablo, who were the chief artisans in the villages here. Santeros were itinerant artists, going from church to church and village to village to offer their work, dating back to the 1700s. It was their vision and handiwork that adorns many of the historic buildings. These days retablos and bultos are still made by hand and are extremely popular. But also represented are the Native American cultures with pottery, weaving and jewelry. It is, in the best sense, a culmination of cultures and customs; an artistic expression of what defines the Southwest.

Bultos

The contemporary arts section, some of which has a decidedly hip take on the traditional retablo for example as well as non-religious art, is a perfect adjunct to the traditional. Some art here pushes the boundaries, some is sanitized and safe, but it is all wonderful and exhilarating to be in a place where the artist is honored; where art is still considered a noble calling.

But visiting Santa Fe also means exploring outside of town and Pecos National Historical Park is a must stop; a confluence of history, hopes and freedom, fear and repression. 12 separate Indian pueblos were once here which eventually consolidated into a single large pueblo with 2,000 inhabitants. Then the Spanish showed up and you can guess where things went from there. At Pecos the demarcation lines of the old pueblo are clearly visible – set atop the highest point to view whoever came their way. Certainly they saw the Spanish coming, but could not have foreseen what their future would become. The Spanish built a massive church close to the pueblo, and the remains from the early 1700s adobe are still here. To walk the area is to be transported back in time. It’s a mere 30 minutes from Santa Fe, but worth the drive. About 30 minutes in the other direction is the Santuario de Chimayo, one of the most visited pilgrimage sites in the

U.S.

The old pueblo church still stands, albeit slightly lopsided, and worshippers and visitors come to claim some of the “holy dirt” which they believe aids in their healing.

A modern art form compliments the traditional

The Spanish Market is a two day event and it’s advisable to stay within walking distance of the downtown core for easy access. There are plenty of places to lodge for the night, but to make certain you are immersed in the Santa Fe culture, forgo traditional chain hotels lacking personality, and consider either the Hotel St. Francis, or Hotel Chimayo, both in downtown Santa Fe. Hotel Chimayo is steps from many of the museums and the old Mission, and the property retains the classic Southwest feel and the accent work, from wrought iron, to tile to woven rugs were all done by local artists. The St. Francis recalls the Franciscan period when the Missions and the Spanish dominated the region. The hotel, originally from the 1920s, has small historic rooms, and a monastery-like lobby. Both have in-house restaurants and the St. Francis has an energetic bar with live music. Visiting Santa Fe means that you’ll not only walk away with art for your home, you’ll leave with an appreciation for other cultures as well.

Religious overtones are apparent at the Spanish Market

The lobby of the St. Francis

DO:

Spanish Colonial Market: http://www.spanishcolonial.org/

Pecos National Historical Park: www.NPS.gov/Peco/

STAY:

Hotel St. Francis: http://www.hotelstfrancis.com/

Hotel Chimayo: www.hhandr.com/plazareal.php

The Top 5 Exploracation Blog Posts of 2011

2011-12-27T20:12:00.000-08:00

Time to Travel! (photo taken in Madrid)

This blog, dedicated to exploring the world we live in, was designed to give any traveler suggestions and ideas about where they might want to go. I’ve assembled the top five most visited blog posts for 2011 and I was quite surprised by which posts were the most popular. So sign up to receive the bi-monthly posts it’s all FREE and share this with friends, Tweet this, post it to your Facebook wall but get the word out so others might Do What They Didn’t Know! The Top 5 most visited Exploracation blog posts for 2011 are...

#5 – Fredericksburg, Texas: Small Town, Big Bites – Grits, wine and the Fat Man. This is an amazing little town with big ideas. Trust me on this, Fredericksburg is probably the coolest small town in the big state of Texas.

http://exploracation.blogspot.com/2011/06/right-said-fred-texas-fredericksburg.html

#4 – Switzerland: Cheese, Wine & Chocolate – I love Switzerland, and I love the cheese, chocolate and wine from this amazing country. Take a brief culinary trip with me and please, no salivating on your keyboard.

http://exploracation.blogspot.com/2011/06/swiss-food-bliss-eat-drink-repeat.html

#3 – The Spiritual Side of Santa Fe – From the Mission to the spiritual ‘staircase’ to the ruins of a Spanish Church (1710), and the most visited pilgrimage site in the U.S., Santa Fe will re-align your attitude, spiritual or otherwise.

http://exploracation.blogspot.com/2011/08/santa-fe-new-mexico-spiritual-side.html

#2 – Richmond, Virginia: The History You Don’t Know – The Civil War, blah, blah, blah. But wait, Richmond, Virginia is far more than that. See what you seriously did not know in a very cool, old town.
http://exploracation.blogspot.com/2011/05/richmond-virginia-history-underfoot.html

#1 – Nova Scotia: Of Lobster and Tidal Bores – Ride the waves, taste the wine, eat lobster. Seriously, what else do you want? A very cool place to visit that many people do not consider. And you can get really muddy. Did I mention sleeping in a train?

http://exploracation.blogspot.com/2011/04/nova-scotia-baby-you-can-ride-my-wave.html

Should you be visiting California, please consider getting one of my Moon guidebooks: Santa Barbara & The Central Coast, covers Ventura to Hearst Castle; California Wine Country, covers the best wine regions in the Golden State including Napa, Santa Barbara, Paso Robles, Monterey and others; and Spotlight: Cambria & San Simeon, is a booklet focused on Cambria, Morro Bay and Paso Robles. All these books are available nationwide in paperback and on Kindle. My next Moon book California Road Trip covers the Great Drive many people make: Los Angeles to San Francisco with side trips to Las Vegas and the Grand Canyon. It will be published in April 2012. Safe Travels and Happy Trails! www.MichaelCervin.com

Gorging on Wine: The Tasting Rooms of the Columbia River Gorge

2011-12-18T08:54:00.000-08:00

Lines, real or imaginary, are critical to identifying states, nations and even vineyards. The Columbia Gorge AVA, which incorporates both Oregon and Washington states, became an official American Viticultural Area in 2009 and over 30 grape varieties are in the ground. The Columbia Gorge may not a wine area you’ve even heard of; Oregon’s Willamette Valley and Washington’s Yakima, and Walla Walla have a more well-known reputation. But the Columbia Gorge has 40+ wineries and they are banking on a steady flow of tourists, advocating their unusual and beautiful growing region, and providing terrific bank for the buck, where it’s uncommon to see bottle prices over $40. If you find yourself in the Columbia River Gorge, say touring the 90 or so waterfalls, rafting the White Salmon, paddle boarding, kite surfing or just wandering the scenic beauty, stop at one, or all of these tasting rooms and sample some terrific juice. Make sure you check the hours available (websites are listed below) and drop some cash for a bottle or two.

Nathan Ziegler at his vineyard

The Columbia River Gorge is a 1,200 mile river however the bulk of the wineries are concentrated near the town of Hood River, an hour east of Portland. Gorge wines have a truncated growing season, are susceptible to lots of rain, intermittent sunshine, cool temperatures and aggressive wind. In Washington Nathan Ziegler of Ziegler Vineyards is short on wine, but long on enthusiasm for wine and Underwood Mountain where his property is located. He currently pours only Pinot Gris and Tempranillo, though Nathan has planted the only known Grüner Veltiner in the state, as well as Riesling. His modest tasting room, actually his grandfather’s retirement house, has sweeping views of vineyards and the Columbia River and he has cheeses available as well. His son has a lemonade stand steps from the tasting room, so you might want to get a wee bit of lemonade, preferably after your wine tasting. Tasting Fee: $2

At the Memaloose tasting room situated on the banks of the Columbia River they are kicking out low alcohol wines, nothing over 13 percent, unusual by most winery standards. “We look for structure and acidity and our cooler temperatures give us that,” says Robert McCormick who knows food and wine from his days with McCormick Spices. “We have a European perspective; old world style; lower alcohol; we take what the vineyard gives us.” Memaloose and their sister label, Idiot’s Grace (I love that name), turn out exclusively Columbia Gorge wines including Primitivo, Cabernet Franc and Riesling. The tasting bar faces the river and if you’re inclined you can sit on the deck just above the water and be amazed at the views, and it’s really cool when the train runs by. Tasting fee: $5

Garrit Stoltz

Hood River, on Oregon’s side of the Columbia River Gorge is home to eight tasting rooms including Stoltz Vineyards where winemaker Garrit Stoltz, a Hood River native, sells the idea of a local making local wine. He routinely produces one barrel lots including Chardonnay and organic Pinot Noir, as well as the peculiar, though inviting, Portuguese variety Ferano Pires (also known as Maria Gomez) and the odd-ball Zweigelt. Therefore Stoltz is something of a renegade. Well, that and their tasting room used to be a funeral home. The beautiful old house turned mortuary turned tasting room has a picturesque view of the river, and was originally built as a model home to draw people to live here. Oh yeah, and he tells me when they bought the property they found an old body in the garage. But the wines are lively and from here you can walk to Cerulean Wine who uses fruit from both Oregon and Washington, to create a broad portfolio of wine

including Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Tempranillo, and Syrah among others and they use sustainable farming methods. Cerulean’s sleek downtown Hood River tasting has exposed brick walls counterbalanced with a reclaimed wood bar and hardwood floors. You’ll find their wines in several of the local restaurants as well. Tasting fee: $5

Franco Marchesi

Up the road, (you’ll need to drive) is Marchesi Vineyards where you can get onto the vine covered property and taste wine in their small tasting room out back. “When I arrived here in 2001 wine was a novelty,” says Franco Marchesi, originally from Italy. Now he has lots of company, but more wine in the Gorge, Marchesi believes, serves everyone, and that’s a fine attitude. He produces excellent Italian varieties including Sangiovese, Barbara and Dolcetto, among others, grown about a mile from the banks of the Columbia River, which used to be an apple orchard. He doesn’t use pesticides. He does cut some salami and other cured meats for people to have with his wines. Tasting fee: $5

Drink Up

www.ZieglerVineyardsEstate.com

www.WinesoftheGorge.com

www.MarchesiVineyards.com

www.StoltzVineyards.com

www.CeruleanWine.com

www.ColumbiaGorgeWine.com

An Open Window -- Door County, Wisconsin

2011-10-28T21:20:00.000-07:00

Apparently, Door County, Wisconsin got its name because of a swath of water located between the tip of the peninsula (imagine a thumb jutting out from a hand…that’s Door County) and Washington Island, just north of the peninsula. These waters, due to their treacherous conditions were named by the French, Porte des Morts – “Deaths Door” (there are tons of shipwrecks which you can dive). These days the Door is less about loss of life and more about a way of life; tranquil, friendly, you know the best of the Mid-West. The peninsula is flanked by Lake Michigan and Green Bay. I always advocate that when traveling, go local. This means you need to sample local wines and beers, avoiding chain restaurants, and discover where and what the cool foods are. The region is home to seven wineries, two distilleries, local beers, cheese and cherries…lots and lots of cherries.

Sweet cherry pie!

EAT THE DOOR

There are three foods which define Door County: cheese, cherries, and fish. Cherries are what the region is best known for and you can’t throw a rock without hitting a cherry orchard (please don’t throw rocks in orchards). Therefore cherry pie is ubiquitous. I sampled cherry pie everywhere I went in the Door and found all manner of pie, using the tart Montmorency cherry. Some pies added almond paste; some had sugared crust, flaky crusts, sweet fillings, and tart-sweet fillings. I routinely make this a practice everyplace I go (biscuits and gravy in Virginia; crème brulee in Paris; quail in Texas; venison in

Switzerland

, etc.) and discover the amazing nuances of local versions. It’s a cool way to make your vacation more interesting.

A traditional fish boil

Boiled fish has never been a staple of my cooking; however the fish boil in Door, an aptly named food event dating back to the 1850s, uses white fish from Lake Michigan or Green Bay. The basic ingredients are fish, potatoes, onions and salt. That’s it. A large pot is brought to a boil over an open flame, salt is added, then potatoes and onions. At the end of the boil, fuel is thrown on the fire and you’ve got yourself a mini-volcano. The original fish boils happened when the oily salmon, which was more common in the olden days, would boil over and enflame the fire. With whitefish, there is no actual boil over; therefore the ending flash is enhanced by the tossing on of fuel. Fish boils are common throughout the county and a connection to history but make sure you choose a fish boil where they use real wood - some outfits use an electric burner - not accurate, not historic and kinda lame. The Square Rigger Gallery in Jacksonport does a traditional fish boil and along with your dinner, there are appetizers and, yes, cherry pie for dessert, about 20 bucks.

You can't go wrong with Wisconsin cheese

Wisconsin brags it has 51 cheese masters (super fancy cheese making people), procuring an astounding array of cheeses, and it ain’t all Colby and cheddar. Wisconsin Cheese Masters has a selection of over 90 local cheeses in one spot conveniently located just steps from Harbor Ridge Winery in Egg Harbor. There are free samples ranging from sheep, goat and cow cheeses; Goudas, merlot-soaked cheeses, chipotle and a most excellent Evalon, an aged goat cheese from LaClare Farms. Buy your cheese then walk next door to the winery and taste some wine.

DRINK THE DOOR

Harbor Ridge Winery started off as a coffee shop, then morphed into wine, perhaps an unusual transformation for Wisconsin but we all need to make a living. They make a few sweet wines on site, but buy a lot of grapes from the West Coast to make Cabernet, Merlot and Chardonnay. Orchard Country Winery makes a bushel full of fruit wines and they have an exceptional cherry wine which perfectly showcases the area. Shipwreck Brewery in Egg Harbor does a fine job of local beers and their Peninsula Porter, a dry, rich brew with toasted barley and soft mocha notes is terrific. There are the two distilleries in the Door, including Door County Distillery who make vodka, gin, and cherry infused vodka. The regular vodka is surprisingly smooth for an 80 proof and worth getting a bottle to bring home.

Some of the Harbor Ridge wines

DO THE DOOR

There are a plethora of activities in the Door, great biking paths, kayaking Lake Michigan or Green Bay, fishing, museums and half a dozen lighthouses. The Cana Island Lighthouse is one of the few which is all original. On Washington Island, a 30 minute ferry ride from the most northern point of the peninsula, you will find among the tree studded forest, not visible from the road, the Stavkirke. The what? Well, it’s a church, built entirely of wood with no nails and replicated after a similar one located in Norway, originally built in 1150 A.D. This one was constructed by volunteers between 1991 and 1995 and is a stunning piece of craftsmanship.

The impressive hand built Stavkirke

STAY

With so many choices of where to stay you want something that accentuates the Door experience. I like the Blacksmith Inn on the Shore in Bailey’s Harbor. The Inn was built in 1905 by, yes, a blacksmith. The main house has original wide plank floors, chinked walls and though the rooms are new, they have Jacuzzi tubs, gas fireplaces and every morning I watched the sunrise over Lake Michigan from my bed. They have kayaks and bikes you can use for free. The bay is just steps down a little wood walkway, a perfect place for morning coffee.

EXPLORE THE DOOR

www.DoorCounty.com

The Blacksmith Inn on the Shore

Ask for Alaska (Part II): True North

2011-10-14T16:19:00.000-07:00

Ketchikan

Alaska: It’s the butt of jokes, the mis-understood state, the “final frontier,” the upper one to the lower 48, and one of the single most stunning terrains you will ever experience. There is a near mysticism-feel to the place as the moody grey clouds hover and envelope the pine trees which blanket the mountains. There is something visceral about the experiences here, the look and the feel of this state. Yes, there are over 100,000 glaciers (you read that right), rugged tree studded ridges, countless islands, and vast stretches of land uninhabited only by nature and her precious animals. And it is apparent that once you visit you will want to come back – I know I do. The problem is, far too many of us don’t visit to begin with, or if we do we merely limit ourselves to the shops which line the safe tiny towns. So get out, break a sweat and see the inherent beauty of Alaska.

Sitka

I was completely surprised by my visit, an amazing experience within the pensive darkness and cool temperatures of a July visit. The vibrant, verdant greens of the moss covered trees come at a price, and that price is the ubiquitous rain. To believe you can visit Alaska and have continual clear blue skies as a backdrop - some sort of disingenuous Photoshopped thing – is in stark contrast to the reality of the staggering beauty of the oceans and mountains – this ain’t the sunshine state. But embrace the rain; it is part of the experience and the deciding factor of why this state is so beautiful. I used a cruise ship to navigate the area, limited, yes, but a great vehicle for exploring Sitka, Juneau and Ketchikan. Regardless of how you get here, there are some cool things to think about once you arrive.

Bear Creek

You can do zip lines through the jaw-dropping rain forest, zipping from tree to tree over Bear Creek in Ketchikan all the while being immersed in the verdant greens of the area. It was steadily raining when I was there which made the experience even more cool. Alaska Canopy offers a great zip line from tree to tree, ending with a 20 foot rappel from a tree only to get you to a 240 slide to end the whole experience.

At the Alaska Raptor Center...so cool!

If you are in Sitka make certain to visit the Alaska Raptor Center where you can see bald eagles and other birds of prey up close and personal as they are being rehabilitated before being released back into the wild. To view these incredible birds nearly nose to beak is tremendous, and though it’s a blast to spot them in the wild (like I did in Nova Scotia on the Schubenacadie River, and at Cachuma Lake in Santa Barbara) they are too far away, too elusive in the wild (as they should be). The Center also has peregrine falcons, owls, hawks, all working on getting better, which gives you an unparalleled opportunity to see them, study them, and be amazed. As part of the tour they bring out a bald eagle right in front of you and you cannot believe how massive, yet agile and light they truly are.

Otters in the waters.

And you can cruise the open seas of Sitka in search of otters, bald eagles, whales and other animals who call these climates home using a variety of touring boats specifically designed to get you in touch with the impressive natural surroundings.

My lovely wife in front of Mendenhall & Nugget

In Juneau you can visit the Mendenhall Glacier, a stunning display of ice. Yes, it’s clearly visible from the visitor’s center, but an easy 20 minute walk will get you closer to the mammoth ice sheet and right near Nugget Creek waterfall. Why stay a safe distance away ensconced in a bus or behind the nicely cleaned glass windows at the visitor’s center? Get out there and feel the spray of the falls, get as close as you can to the glacier, smell the deep pure waters, and see the devious blue ice. Also in Juneau is the Mount Adams Tramway ($29 per adult) which gets you 1,800 feet above the ground for stunning views. There’s a small museum and gift shop there, hiking paths even a bar and grill.

The views from Mount Roberts

It’s a little pricy, but worth a few hours to experience the place. The vistas are awesome and the trail on the backside of the mountain gives you views to deep forested valleys and even more pine studded mountains. Located just up from downtown Juneau, the Mesa Grill cooks up reindeer sausage (mixed with a little pork) and is open year round, mainly serving the locals, not tourists. Go visit Trish, the owner, and try the very tasty sausage.

Trish at the Mesa Grill cooks my reindeer sausage.

Alaska is not nearly the sum of these few parts, but you have to start somewhere. A cruise ship gets you in touch, albeit briefly, with a few towns listed here. From there, the adventure is what you make of it. Don’t waste it, explore, educate yourself, and evolve in the process. This is the point of traveling.

Zip Lines/Ketchikan: http://www.alaskacanopy.com/

Alaska Raptor Center/Sitka: http://www.alaskaraptor.org/

Mount Adams Tramway/ Juneau: http://www.goldbelttours.com/

Though I look goofy, Alaska does not. It is amazing.

Pieces of China: Broken Shards of Experience (China Part II)

2011-09-26T13:17:00.000-07:00

China has never been on my to-do travel list, but when the chance to fly to Beijing, then Xining, then Golmud City in the Kunlun Mountains (moving ever deeper into the interior) came up, I thought, hell, why not? The actual reason for my visit was an invitation from the Ministry of Environmental Protection, (the EPA of the Chinese government) relating to water protection. In addition to attending a water summit in Beijing, I conducted a water tasting for about 100 Chinese media. I mention this because since the Chinese government escorted me throughout my travels, there were things I didn’t get to see or experience, and things I will never forget. Life is, as we know, fundamentally the experience we open ourselves up to.

Part of Beijing's downtown

Beijing is a massive city of 20 million people; a sprawling, crowded mega-city with a constant grey pall over the area. Beijing is a global city and signs are in both Chinese and English so getting around is relatively easy, though it will take you a while to get acclimated. Of note, unless you’re a very experienced driver, do not drive in China, even rural areas. Get a taxi or a driver as the road rules are fast and loose and with the amount of traffic you’ll get lost quickly. I was driven, for the most part, by government officials, and even they got lost! I wasn’t able to get to the Forbidden City, sadly, though it was close to my hotel. But as I said, I was a guest of the government, and did get to see things many Westerners never experience – more on that later. Prior to my leaving for China, many people told me that they hated Beijing: too big, too ugly, too spread out. But as I’m a travel writer, I seek out the uniqueness of anyplace I visit. As with any city you can look at the surface and recoil, or, you can explore and dig deep.

Some of the cool art at 798

798 is worth exploring; an old military/industrial zone transformed into a hip urban arts and cultural center which is way cool. Art galleries, funky shops and restaurants cohabitate, juxtaposed with their military surroundings. One gallery was showing North Korean art, something we’ll never see here in the U.S. And this is the point of not judging where you are – there are always cool, unique, unusual things just around the corner, if you only look.

A painting done by a North Korean artist

We drove around Tiananmen Square, but were not allowed to get out and walk through it, nor see Chairman Mao’s tomb or feel the history of the student uprising in 1989 (remember the guy with the shopping bags standing in front of the tank?). Bummer, as I would have loved that. However, we were taken to the Temple of Heaven – a sprawling series of temples started in the 1400’s, which allowed the emperors of the Ming and Qing dynasties to offer ceremonial prayers to the heavens. This is one of the quintessential experiences while in Beijing and frankly, it’s a stunning architectural masterpiece.

Just part of the Temple of Heaven

I was then flown to Xining and was able to visit the Kumbum Monastery on the Tibetan Plateau, which has 20 different temples huddled together inside its walled property; an odd mix of monks in burgundy robes, tourists staggering about with cameras banging their chests, beggars looking like they came right out of Central Casting, exhausted pilgrims, and cars all sharing the same tight space. Photos are not allowed inside the temples; therefore some of the really cool imagery is unavailable. You’ll also see some of the Mongolian people, stocky folk with ruddy earthen complexions, covered in layered garb, offering prayers as well as pilgrims.

Pilgrams inside the Kumbum Monastery

Yes, it's real: the Temple of the Yak Butter

Outside the walls the vendors will try and sell you anything; prayer shawls, yak yogurt, incense, cooked potatoes, and some odd worthless stuff. This is a poor area, so there is an intensity to the vendors which is off-putting, though not uncommon to many countries. If you know little about Buddhism it’s wise to do research before coming here, otherwise the imagery, icons and customs inside the monastery will be lost on you. The Temple of the Yak Butter is the most peculiar temple I visited, devoted to all things yak (a mastodon-looking beast of burden), which has as its focal point a weirdly interesting diorama of all things Buddha made from, yes, yak butter, then painted and kept behind glass to preserve it, all hand-crafted, allegedly by the local monks. In this part of China and at this elevation, yaks are one of the few animals able to thrive in the harsh, barren and often brutally cold environment. There are few trees, no vegetables, some wheat, barley and potatoes; therefore the yak has been elevated to near religious status. The milk, butter, meat and skins of the yak have been essential for the survival of the plateau people for thousands of years, so yeah, I guess a yak temple makes sense.

The government run Victory Hotel in Golmud

Several nights I was ensconced comfortably in the Grand Hyatt Beijing, several other nights I stayed in government hotels, used only for the military and government personnel. The Victory, located in Golmud City, is a peculiar building with uncomfortable beds, 1970s furniture, bad odors and people wandering about in their military uniforms. But as deep into

China

as we were you actually get authentic Chinese food, not a Westernized version, including yak, sea cucumber and foods no one explained to me. But that is exactly what travel is about; preferring the actual experience to the expectation. Life is ultimately a unique adventure should we choose it and it need not always be predictable, ordinary, sanitized and flat-lined. As for my experience in China, I would gladly go again, though it was unlike anything I had even remotely expected or hoped for.

Baja Humbug! Mexico’s Food and Drink is Rather Merry

2011-09-07T13:11:00.000-07:00

Tequila: that’s the drink. If you know nothing about Mexico you know that much. There are many types of tequila used in margaritas and it’s not possible to tell you where the best margaritas can be found as Baja has literally thousands of them. But if you’re drinking one the Cadillac Margarita, made with Cuervo Gold and Grand Marnier; it’s the smoothest version you will find. For a completely different version, La Diferencia, a fantastic restaurant in Tijuana, makes a tamarind margarita, (tamarind is a tree fruit) a muted dusty rose looking thing, beautifully smooth with a rustic, mildly sweet taste. In Ensenada, you have margaritas from what many believe to be the actual birthplace of the drink at the Bar Andaluz.

The interior of Bar Andaluz

To hear their story, accompanied by the tile plaque on the front of the building, the now famous drink was created August 21^st, 1948 by bartender David Negrete for a woman named, you guessed it, Margarita. These days the bar, with its beautiful Deco painted back bar, is more a haven for the tourists who want a free simplistic version of this classic drink, and what they serve won’t do justice to the original, but it’s a cool historic stop.

The beautiful Guadalupe Valley

Baja California is also known for their wine. The Guadalupe Valley east of Ensenada is the premier grape growing region with about 60 wineries and makes 90 percent of the wine in all of

Mexico

. But beyond the offerings of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chenin Blanc, Vina La Viceaga makes grappa, a 40% alcohol spirit made from wine grapes. They produce versions from Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Barbera grapes. Grappa is not allowed to be tasted in U.S. tasting rooms (well, not “legally”) but you can here. And of course there is the beer. In Tecate, east of Tijuana, Tecate Brewery makes not only the iconic Tecate beer, but also Dos Equis and Sol. They offer a free hour-long tour of their facility, which is a little industrial with its gleaming stainless steel equipment and rapid-fire un-manned assembly lines, but you’ll get the idea. At full tilt they produce 1,600 cans each minute. 30,000 people a year visit and perhaps ironically, they get many of their hops from Wisconsin. Included is a free beer in their outdoor beer garden.

Brewer Victor Gonzales

In Tijuana, the micro brewery, Tijuana Brewery, is aiming directly at the stronghold of Tecate beer. Head brewer Victor Gonzales brews up batches using hops from the Czech Republic and malts from Canada and is attempting to give more structure to his beers. Their best are the Brava; a drier, hoppier beer, and Bofadora (named for the famous blow hole), a full bodied, smooth brew with a hoppy, bitter finish.

The region also claims to be the birthplace of the Caesar Salad and you can go to Caesar’s Restaurant and have them make it for your table side: a slow, methodical process which adds the ingredients one at a time and ultimately creates, arguably, the best Caesar salad you will probably ever have. And definitely visit La Querencia in Tijuana where Miguel Anjon Guerrello has been at the forefront of Baja-Med cuisine for a decade. Miguel is a true renaissance man, shooting his own game, cutting his own wood to smoke it on, and brewing his own beer. The gallery of animal heads on the wall is like Noah’s Ark, he jokes. “If it fly’s, swims or craws, it’s probably here.” The evening I was at this strip mall location he served up fresh shot quail with a bittersweet chili sauce, and the best venison carpaccio I’ve ever tasted.

Making Caesar salad at Caesar's

If seafood is your preference, Barra Azul in Ensenada does excellent fish, including marlin carpaccio, octopus ceviche, and they have a complete oyster bar. Or for sautéed crickets, a delicacy in Mexico, head back to La Diferencia in Tijuana. While there also try La Coche, or “corn smut,” a fungus that’s allowed to grow on ears of corn. It has more in common with the taste of truffles and is served on homemade tortillas with smoky ranch-style beans. One of my favorite places to stay is the Hotel Coral and Marina in Ensenada. This is the best lodging in order to access the wineries in the Guadalupe Valley, and/or reasonable access to Tecate or Tijuana, and it’s located right on the ocean. Not only are the prices fantastic for the large rooms, but every room faces the ocean from your balcony, with average pricing under $200. The rooms are nicely appointed and you won’t find a better bang for your buck. As if this isn’t enough they have a shuttle which will get you to downtown Ensenada, OR, if you live in Southern California, they have packages where they will pick you up where you live and drive you to the hotel, thereby having little to do with crossing the border.

The views at Hotel Coral

Baja is a study of contrasts, the birthplace of the margarita and the Caesar salad. But it is also coming into its own with seafood harvested directly off shore, restaurants offering local specialized foods, and a place where you will find original items you won’t see in

America

www.ladiferencia.com.mx/

www.Tecate.com

http://www.tjbeer.com/

www.LaQuerenciaTJ.com/

www.Barrazul.com/

http://www.hotelcoral.com/

Ask for Alaska (Part 1) - Cruise the Views

2011-08-19T07:29:00.000-07:00

Sunset on a cruise!

Alaska is a huge state and there are many ways to experience it, but frankly, a cruise ship does the job handily. You might be thinking, “What? Me cruise? I’m not my parents!” Okay, settle down, you’re right on that account. But cruises these days are not your parents cruise. Get your rudder out of joint and at least consider it. There are a number of cruise lines (I’ve used Holland America several times which I highly recommend) which will transport you to the Great North, or elsewhere, with ease. A cruise allows you to visit multiple ports and the small Alaskan towns of Sitka, Juneau and Ketchikan among others, which are ideal one day stops. You can plan shore excursions (all cruise ships offer options though at a price) and further explore the area’s temperate rain forest, which is stunningly beautiful, the coast where you can see otters and whales in season, plenty of bald eagles, or shop (which I don’t because it numbs me) or just hang. Plus visiting the small towns you can find cool things like local art, reindeer sausage (which I loved), elk burgers (eh, not so much) and heaps of fresh salmon and crab.

The kitchen hard at work

Of course cruising also means you can hang out on the high seas and eat. To whit: While cruising on the Holland America ship Westerdam to Alaska, I toured the kitchen and had a private dinner with chef Troy Wastell. Totaling the passengers and crew, the ship holds just under 3,000 people, small by usual cruise ship standards, though considerably larger than parties I host at my house. Consider that on average this particular kitchen puts out 10,000 meals a day (factoring 3 meals per day per person) with the help of 97 cooks, 2 butchers and 9 pastry chefs. Average food consumption per cruise? 1,675 pounds of butter and margarine; over 23,000 eggs get cracked, 1,150 gallons of ice cream are sucked up, and nearly 12,000 pounds of meat and meat products are consumed (I’m not exactly sure what a “meat product” is – meat is either meat, or it’s not). The food is, overall, very well executed with an amazing diversity of choice and is designed so that meals don’t repeat during the week.

Chey Troy Wastell makin' my dinner

The private “Dine with the Chef” dinner, though pricy at about $80, does allow a small group to dine on a 6-course meal with wine paring as Chef Troy cooks your food in front of you. It’s about 3 hours, but you’ll find various foods presented: in my case there was passionfruit baked shrimp, lobster ravioli, veal scaloppini and the beverage pairings included vodka with a potato and cavier appetizer, as well as wines from across the globe. Happily, I meandered back to my state room.

But cruising also allows for nightly entertainment and every ship has plenty of activities for travelers of all ages, and something I need, a gym, and something I don’t need, a spa. Do with it what you will, or hang out on your verandah and stare at the Pacific as you effortlessly glide over it. When I did my first cruise, I hated it. It felt too confining. But choosing the right cruise line for your needs is crucial. Different cruise lines appeal to different demographics: the sedate set, the party cruise, and there are specific themed cruises as well, so do your homework.

Cruising the views: Me, my wife and the Hubbard Glacier

But try it at least once. It really is a fantastic way to get an overview of a region and if you plan it right, you can cruise for a very reasonable amount, about $150/day. Try that with a hotel, 3 squares a day, gas, and no entertainment! If it’s your first time, make sure you do a shorter cruise first, not a 14-day adventure. Start slowly and work into it. And cruises work best when you grasp the idea that there will be a boatload of people around you, so the more you make friends (you’ll see them on land and on the ship) the more you’ll enjoy your time. Some ships offer behind the scenes tours. As a travel writer a get a lot of cool opportunities, like touring the kitchen with the chef, and hanging out on the bridge with the captain. Always check to see what is offered each day you’re aboard ship; be adventurous and try something new: otherwise you’ll be at the point of no return and we know where that leads. Have fun. Go cruise.

Cruising is easy, as shown here on the Westerdam's Bridge

Santa Fe, New Mexico: Spiritual Sidewinding

2011-08-07T17:01:00.000-07:00

St. Francis overlooks downtown Santa Fe

More than anything Santa Fe is known for art galleries, about 250 of them actually. So when most people come here they peruse local art; Hispanic, Spanish motifs, retablos, religious iconography and contemporary art. But in the ether there is something for those with a decidedly spiritual propensity. This place whispers sacred history; an odd and rambling collection of things religious, things visceral and things of another world.

Loretto Chapel & staircase

Beginning in downtown Santa Fe there is Loretto Chapel with its “mysterious” staircase (www.lorettochapel.com). The chapel is a very pretty little thing and the church was completed in 1876. There was an upper part of the interior church, and the old ladders used to access it were becoming difficult and unstable for the Sisters so the church prayed for someone who could build them a staircase. Rather mysteriously, a carpenter shows up, no name, just a few tools, and he set about building a freestanding, non-supporting staircase without nails, that ascends two full 360 degree rotations up some 20 feet (the railings were added later). As the story goes, the man then vanishes, no name, no invoice, no nothing. Is this the work of a spiritual builder? Sure it’s not an impossible task, but given the time when it was built (sometime between 1877 and 1881) it would have been a difficult job at best.

El Satuario de Chimayo

In the village of Chimayo (a 30 minute drive from Santa Fe) is perhaps the most intriguing church in part because it is not gentrified, nor sanitized, but it’s a slightly lopsided building known as El Santuario (www.elsantuariodechimayo.us). The story begins in 1810 when a local guy sees light emanating from the ground. He gets to the source, starts digging and pulls up a crucifix, and not a necklace-size either, this is about 4 feet tall and is currently at the alter of the church (I wasn’t allowed to take interior photos). The crucifix was taken to the mother church in Santa Fe, but it mysteriously returned back here on three separate occasions. Rightly so, the church authorities realized that this was the spot to build a new church. The 1817 structure still stands and has become a place for healing as people will scoop up dirt from the spot the crucifix was dug up. Located next to the chapel is a low room (you’ll need to bend down to get in) and dead center is a hole with dirt in it, the faithful placing said dirt into baggies and hauling it away. Just outside of that is another small room with dozens of crutches, said to be the cast-offs of those healed by the holy dirt of El Santuario. Some 30,000 pilgrims walk from as far as Albuquerque on Good Friday to get here.

Father Roca and yours truly

After my visit I chatted with Father Roca who has served this parish since 1954. Amiable, funny with a still noticeable Spanish accent, he could not fit any better into this unique and fascinating part of New Mexico. It’s a cool visit regardless of your religious leanings due to the history of this small village church and its physical survival over the years.

At the southern end of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains is Pecos National Historical Park (www.nps.gov/peco). Archaeologists determined that Native American peoples gathered here as early as 800 AD. There were originally a dozen small independent Pueblos until they realized the strength in numbers idea and built a massively large Pueblo, four stories high, strategically set on a vast plain. The U.S. Parks Service has reconstructed a kiva, an underground round room used mainly for spiritual ceremonies and social gatherings which you can descend into.

Into the kiva at Pecos

There were between 16 and 24 such kivas at Pecos, all gone, but the replica, on the exact spot of a former one, will give you the idea. Pecos is, geographically, a stunningly beautiful place, and it was a major trading hub and the Indians were probably pretty damn happy…until the Spanish found their way here in the 1580s. As new self-appointed spiritual leaders they constructed a six story adobe church; a counterpoint to the multi level Pueblo and the remains of the original adobe church (completed in 1717) still stand. Spiritual and physical clashes are part of human nature and history and ultimately the Pueblo Indians didn’t stand a long-term chance and the Pueblo was abandoned by 1838. The outlines of the great Pueblo are still here, within sightlines of the Spanish church. Of course history is the great equalizer and though both cultures are well represented by local art, lore, foods, and history, New Mexico is now America, an even greater hodgepodge of cultures, though still unfortunately as odds with each other.

The ruins of the adobe Spinish Church from 1717

When you visit Santa Fe, take some time to honor the spirits that were here before you and visit these places. Stay at the Hotel St. Francis as it is right downtown with easy access to restaurants, art galleries and Loretto Chapel (http://www.hotelstfrancis.com/). The hotel, originally built in 1924, is an homage to the Franciscans who ruled here and has a monastery-like lobby and historic rooms, all in keeping with a spiritual theme. Whatever your beliefs, Santa Fe holds a tangible blend of history and spirituality, a place where you can come to connect. With what exactly is up to you.

The lobby of the Hotel St. Francis

Swiss Food Bliss: Eat, Drink, Repeat

2011-06-23T20:03:00.000-07:00

Appenzeller Cows seem quite happy

I make no apologies; I love cheese, chocolate and wine. Most people love at least one, usually two, and the genetically superior adore all three. I also love Switzerland: the Alps, the scenic beauty, the history, the orderliness of the whole system, the fact that there are only eight million people. Cheeses and chocolates are legendary here because the milk is typically un-pasteurized, (unlike for the American market) therefore the milk and cream used in the chocolates and cheeses of Switzerland are fresh, creamy and offer a textural, sensory experience.

Getting Cheesed

We know Swiss, Emmental and Gruyere cheeses, but there are 400 other varieties of cheese produced in Switzerland and it’s processed within 24 hours after milking, rendering it amazingly fresh and healthy. The Swiss consume about 35 pounds of cheese per person each year. In the Appenzell region of Northern Switzerland the main cheese is Appenzeller; aged three, six or eight months, which becomes sharper as it ages, with a creamy texture and mild nuttiness. It’s been made here for 700 years and during the aging process a blend of 42 herbs are basted on the rind, though no one will tell you exactly what they are. The secret recipe is locked in the vault of a local bank. What’s more, the highly regarded Appenzell cows (happy cows are, apparently, not from California) are taken to summer pastures 6,000 feet in the Alpine mountains where they feed on grass, (which is the way cows feed naturally, not on grain), wildflowers, herbs and other plants, therefore the multitude of cheeses have subtle taste differences.

Fondue is famously Swiss and best expressed at places like Café du Grutli in Lausanne where the blend of Gruyere and Vacherin cheeses creates a thick, smooth fondue. Owner Willi Prutsch adds tiny amounts of garlic (rubbed onto the bowl), white wine and kirsch (cherry schnapps) to his 25 year-old fondue recipe. There are also fondues with whiskey, champagne or even chile added in, so you’ll get cheesed easily.

Last Wine Standing

The best wine pairing with fondue is one of Switzerland’s most ubiquitous white wines, Chasselas, which has a mild acidity, ideal to cut the heavy cheese fondue. The simplicity of the wine and its acid brings out the sharp rich nuttiness of the cheeses. And Switzerland is home to more indigenous wine grapes than most any other country. A visit to the Lavaux wine region, hugging Lake Geneva, allows you to sample wines you cannot find anywhere else, literally, because the Swiss drink 99 percent of their wine, the other paltry one percent is exported. Odd hybrid grapes like Kerner (Riesling+Trollinger), Carminoir (Cabernet Sauvignon+ Pinot Noir) and Gamaret (Gamay+Reichensteiner) are found no where but here.

The Lavaux

Lavaux, a steep terraced shoreline is a patchwork of houses and vineyards. It’s located between Lausanne and Montreux, and this UNESCO World Heritage site is one of the most picturesque places in the entire country as the vines extend to the edge of the lake with the Alps in the background. The Romans planted the first grapes and over time the hillsides were carved out, stone walls demarcating the vineyards. The steep inclines necessitate that everything be hand harvested and each year the old stone walls must be repaired and patched less they tumble into the water. There are other wine regions in

Switzerland

of course, but the Lavaux is the most well-known, the quaint little Swiss villages being a post-card perfect backdrop.

Wine Villages in the Lavaux

Loco for Cocoa

Chocolate in Switzerland is ubiquitous and excellent and the Swiss consume more chocolate per person than anyone in the world, about 25 pounds annually, and no, the Swiss are not typically fat. Toblerone, Lindt and Nestle are synonymous with Swiss chocolate, but while these are good, they are mass produced and the American versions pale by comparison to the Swiss versions since they require the aforementioned pasteurized milk. In essence therefore, it’s not even the same chocolate. If you’ve eaten Toblerone in the states, compared to

Switzerland

, the difference is astounding. But these behemoth chocolate makers cannot equate to the medium sized chocolate makers like Teuscher (available in the U.S. and in spite of their pasteurized milk are excellent chocolates), and smaller artisanal chocolate fiends like Durig Chocolatier located in Lausanne.

Dipping your hands in chocolate...seriously, this is insane!

Dan Durig learned chocolate-making from his father and his 13 year-old eponymous store produces organic, fair trade chocolates that are stunningly good. He sources cocoa beans primarily from Ecuador and Peru and is experimenting with single variety cocoa beans, rather than blending beans together, to produce a chocolate terroir, just like with wine. As chocolate is poured into molds they are vibrated to remove any air bubbles, then embellishments with, say pink peppercorn, mango and pistachios are applied. You won’t find chocolates and cheeses that are fresher or purer than those in Switzerland, and you won’t find their wines. For those reasons alone (and frankly what other reasons do you need), a visit to this spectacular country needs to be a priority. http://www.myswitzerland.com/

Dan During

Right, Said Fred: Texas, Fredericksburg-style

2011-06-02T11:19:00.000-07:00

The Hangar Hotel

No one thinks Texas does things small, but the small town of Fredericksburg does things right. This town of 10,000 people has a surprising wealth of possibilities for visitors. Accessed best from Austin or San Antonio (San Antonio airport offers free wireless, I like that) it’s an hour and a half drive from both. There are a diversity of places to stay in town, lots of B&Bs, Sunday Houses, and traditional hotels. But for a flight of fancy, literally, the Hangar Hotel, located at the municipal airport is a gem. Popular with pilots, it’s geared for anyone who loves great accommodations and a throwback style. There’s a 1940s feel to the place, they have USO dances on occasion, as well as a 1940s-style diner. Best of all you can watch all manner of planes take off and land, talk with pilots and step back in time. (http://www.hangarhotel.com/)

Replica of "Fat Man" which was dropped on Nagasaki

I had no expectations when I visited the National Museum of the Pacific War. But it’s a stunning, comprehensive overview of WW II from the perspective of the Pacific. Say WWII and Europe is what comes to mind for most people, but the war in the Pacific had an incalculable benefit to the ultimate victory. Represented at the museum are the stories barely spoken about and until now, rarely recorded; countless stories of heroic men and woman who fought against sometimes ridiculous odds, to help secure the Marshall Islands, Tarawa, Iwo Jima, Guadalcanal and other locations most of us can’t find on a map. There is an actual Japanese sub, a replica of “Fat Man” the Nagasaki death bomb, accounts both visual and written of difficult times the Allies faced that most of us will never know. The museum needs several hours to absorb the full impact of what transpired there and how it related to the Allied victory. This museum is a massive effort, supremely designed, very emotional, and highly recommended. (http://www.pacificwarmuseum.org/)

Jalapeno stuffed quail & cheese grits at Cabernet Grill

Eatin’ Time

Fredericksburg was founded by Germans in 1847 (how’s that for a segue!) therefore you’ll find many Germanic dishes like the Schinken schnitzel; a thin, tender pork chop topped with ham and cheese and a brown Dijon sauce at the Fredericksburg Brewing Company. Or veer slightly left and partake of the jalapeno stuffed quail at the Cabernet Grill, both great restaurants. But this town also has some fantastic gourmet items you should not miss. The raspberry chipotle sauce made by Fischer & Wieser is my latest love affair. They make other jams and jellies but this sauce is killer: slightly sweet raspberry and a spice kick from the chipotle peppers. This is a balanced sauce for grilling, slathering over cream cheese or whatever your can think of. Their store, all beat up wood floors and a nameless butterscotch-colored cat that wanders them, is a great stop. (http://www.jelly.com/)

Opa's Smoked Meat are a must!

Maybe smoked meats are your thing, you’re in Texas after all. Opa’s Smoked Meats began in the 1940s as a meat locker, a place where, before widespread refrigeration, people stored their half a cow. These days you can pick up sandwiches, but more importantly, you can get their jalapeno and cheddar cheese sausage, an amazingly smooth, cheesy and slightly spicy sausage, totally addictive, or any of the other dozen brands they make on site. Their beef tenderloin is also wonderful and they are one of the few places where you can get pickled quail eggs...uh, for those of you who are searching for them. (http://www.opassmokedmeats.com/)

The decadent filled chocolates at Chocolat

Then there is Chocolat, liquid filled chocolates which are stellar. These are not chocolates merely injected with various liquids, oh no; these small pieces of dark chocolate are cast, then filled with Texas bourbon, local wines, crème de menthe, etc. The difference is noticeable when you pop it in your mouth. The shell actually breaks into an aggregate of dark chocolate, known as a sugar crust, allowing the pure liquid to float over your mouth. Make sure you’re holding on to the counter. (http://www.chocolat-tx.us/)

Drinkin’ Time

The Fredericksburg Brewing Company does food and brews in a convivial environment.

The beers they make on site are not for hop-heads, these are friendly beers, soft and drinkable. Their Red Rock Ale for example has mild malts with a subtle mocha note. (http://www.yourbrewery.com/). Wine has been made in Texas as far back as the late 1700s and today the state is the 5^th largest producer of wine in the U.S., which may surprise you except that most Texas wine is consumed by the 25 million Texans who drink it. Route 290 in Fredericksburg is the new wine trail with 10 tasting rooms. Tempranillo and Petite Sirah are the up and comers for reds. The white wines show good acids, and proper varietal characteristics. Chenin Blanc, Pinot Grigio and Viognier are the clear winners. The white wines from Grape Creek Vineyard are excellent for the area, and if you’re willing to shell out some bucks, the Cabernet and Merlot at Pedernales Cellars are terrific. (http://www.pedernalescellars.com/), (http://www.grapecreek.com/)

Route 290 is the wine tasting trail

Another Brick in the (Great) Wall (of China)

2011-05-17T16:56:00.000-07:00

The Great Wall of China; we all know it, we’ve seen pictures of it, and have probably read about it. But to visit is, frankly, surreal. If you’re in Beijing it’s best to avoid the closer “touristy” section of the wall and spring for Badling which can be accessed by a 2-hour drive from Beijing. This means you’ll need to rent a car. But if like me and you’re staying at a major Beijing hotel (I was at the Grand Hyatt Beijing), you can get a driver for about $50 per hour.

A mid-week visit is best, late spring even better. Why? Because the Wall is walled-in with people. Thousands of them. Perhaps more. Arriving at this section it’s a weirdly disturbing sight to spy dozens of tour buses, hundreds of cars, and a stunning display of humanity. Oh yeah, and there’s a Starbucks here. Trash is littered by the entrance and the throngs of people milling about aimlessly make it feel like a refugee camp.

These images might pull you out of the moment, but don’t let it. The entrance fee is about $8 and once you enter, veer left, not right, and you’ll find fewer people up the steep slopes. You will however still see people pimping T-shirts, and hats, kitschy crap, folks talking on their cell phones, tour groups wearing identical hats – a formidable display of non-stop people. It’s unavoidable, so let it go.

It is amazingly easy however to tune out the weirdness and get lost in the simple act of putting one foot in front of the other. The Wall makes you want to walk it, to transverse its undulating path and to ponder – what exactly that may be is known only to you. And that’s as it should be. It seems to have been built haphazard in approach, just a weirdly misplaced length of stone to keep out undesirables, perhaps something a group of drunken politicians devised after too much imbibing, maybe a construction project based on a dare. Whatever. Walk. It’s uphill, downhill, steep with uneven steps, slippery in the rain, hot as hell in the unrelenting sun, but it’s one of the Seven Wonders of the World, and if you walk long enough, the crowds will dissipate and you will find a place of respite to pause, and be amazed that the early Chinese built a wall nearly 4,000 miles long. In our day and age it seems like a simplistic and stupid method of deterrence. The thought of building a wall to keep out the Mongolian people appears to us of noble minds as unsophisticated and uneducated - until you consider that America has built a much less great wall with Mexico thousands of years later, which is still a simplistic and stupid idea. At any rate, you’re here, now. The Wall traverses the ridgelines and hilltops of the mountains, plunges deep into valleys and is a constant sight on the horizon, like a massive snake in repose. But it is also a mute witness to history, a literal timeline you can stand on. Yes, you can walk for long periods of time, and no, it’s not an uninterrupted journey as some parts of the Wall are shut down due to disrepair and other portions abruptly stop to prohibit people from wandering for hours. There have been cases of people walking for 5, 6 hours, then realizing they need to return to their starting point. But in some odd way that is exactly the point of visiting – to get lost amid a sea of humanity, and to wander a stone wall in a strange country, to get almost Zen with the whole thing: tuning out the people, the politics, the fact that you’re in China, the fact that this isn’t ADA compliant, and that you are here in this moment atop a wall built out of the stone from under your feet. And then perhaps we can return to our own country and walk among another and different sea of humanity, aware, but not affected by mundane and petty problems, and actually notice the inherent beauty and wonder that surrounds us always.

Richmond, Virginia – History Underfoot

2011-05-09T19:10:00.000-07:00

The Grand Staircase at the Jefferson Hotel

Richmond, Virginia is bathed in Revolutionary and Civil War history; it rose from its own ashes when 37 blocks were destroyed by retreating Confederate soldiers during the Civil War. Anywhere you go in Richmond you’ll run into something of historical importance. The architecture of ornate iron work graces beautiful brick buildings, and monuments and statues are scattered everywhere. The Jefferson Hotel, one of only two five-star hotels in the state, is an ideal base as you’re within walking distance or a short cab ride to most of Richmond’s coolest attractions. The hotel, built in 1895, is old-school, stately, plush and refined. Rather weirdly, the hotel used to be home to alligators that lived in the shallow indoor pools until 1948, and the grand staircase is said to have been the inspiration for the one in Gone with the Wind.

Monticello - from the back side

An hour’s drive from Richmond is Monticello, Thomas Jefferson’s technologically advanced home where he studied, plotted graphs and charts on farming, wine, food production and entertained international guests. Plan on Michie Tavern for lunch though, before visiting Monticello. Operating since 1784 the tavern serves a daily buffet based on 18^th Century fare. Be Southern and get the excellent fried chicken, biscuits and black eyed peas, and save room for their killer peach cobbler, all for about $20.
Arriving at Monticello, check out the visitor center first to see a short film abut Jefferson which is surprisingly moving. Take the shuttle to the entrance of Monticello, or, burn off that cobbler by taking the 20 minute walk through the lush woods, past the Jefferson gravesite and enter via the back side of the property. Tours are an hour and are worth it, as Jefferson was a man way ahead of his time. A three minute drive from Monticello is Jefferson Vineyards. Located on Jefferson’s property the vines, planted in 1981, not only bear Jefferson’s name but are pretty good wines. Jefferson sought to bring fine wine to America and made various studies about grape growing. These days Virginia has 150 wineries, showcasing Viognier, which is quickly become a signature white wine, to native American varieties like Norton and Vidal.

The Lovely Ladies at Michie Tavern

A Poe actor creates The Tell-Tale Heart

Returning to Richmond, swing by the Edgar Allen Poe Museum, it’s a mere $6 to get it. There’s an eclectic collection of all things Poe; from one of his vests, to his boyhood bed (odd), books of his works, a lock of hair (a little more odd), the staircase from his childhood home (really odd), and a peculiar, but intriguing, diorama a local woman made in 1926 showing how Richmond looked when Poe lived there in the 1800s. They occasionally offer murder mysteries where actors recreate some of Poe’s best works.

St. John's Church

Richmond’s most visited structure though is St. John's Church, built in 1741. This is where an impassioned Patrick Henrydeclared, “…give me liberty or give me death,” on March 23^rd, 1775 as Thomas Jefferson and George Washington listened (hopefully so--they couldn’t text but they might have been doodling, who knows?). Though the interior looks nothing like the original, you can sit in the same spot where our forefathers wrestled with the idea of democracy and understand how we are the result of those fateful decisions.

The Library of Virginia houses a Special Collections section, old books mainly, which might seem tedious and academic but hold on to your binding. They have handwritten letters of George Washington, books owned by Thomas Jefferson and Patrick Henry from 1733, and the smallest book you’ve ever seen, (no, seriously) holding five of Abraham Lincoln’s speeches. Best of all is the jaw-dropping book, handled gingerly with gloves, the only book that survived the crossing of the Mayflower dating from 1617. Yes, they are available to see, no, you can’t touch them.

Seriously, this is the smallest book...ever!

Richmond is also Civil War Central. It was here where Jefferson Davis set up his Confederate white house. The American Civil War Center, situated on the banks of the James River, is a 6 block walk from downtown. The museum is inside the Tredegar Iron Works building which produced cannons and firearms for the Confederate Army. The exhibits examine the war from political and philosophical perspectives and though heavy on text, it gives a comprehensive overview of the war. $8 gets you in and you can download a podcast to your I-phone. Richmond is one of those seminal cities where we begin to understand much of who we are in our present context. That we can eat, drink and walk in the steps of our founding fathers is of no small importance.

The Museum's old outer walls

http://www.visitrichmondva.com/

STAY

~The Jefferson Hotel, http://www.jeffersonhotel.com/

~Poe Museum, www.poemuseum.org

~Monticello, http://www.monticello.org/

~Michie Tavern, http://www.michietavern.com/

~St. John’s Church, http://www.historicstjohnschurch.org/

~American Civil War Center, http://www.tredegar.org/

~The Library of Virginia, http://www.lva.virginia.gov/

~Wineries of Virginia, http://www.virginiawine.org/

Nova Scotia: Baby You Can Ride My Wave

2011-04-27T16:19:00.000-07:00

Nova Scotia is linked inexorably to the sea. Water defines this Canadian province, located east of Maine. Halifax is the capital and it’s accessed by major airlines. Nova Scotia (meaning New Scotland) is a great vacation idea as they have come into their own with a thriving culinary scene, 15 wineries, several micro-breweries, a distillery, an impressive arts community, and a strong fishing heritage. Halifax is also the resting place for 150 souls who perished on the Titanic, buried in three cemeteries near downtown, including J.F.P. Clarke, the bass player from Titanic’s band.

Blue Rocks - a classic Nova Scotia fishing village

Water, Water Everywhere: The Bay of Fundy is the most dominate water force which bears down upon Nova Scotia, one inch at a time. It’s here where the world’s highest tides have been recorded; a daily natural phenomenon of incoming and outgoing tides of over 25 feet. This means that visible stretches of ground are covered with water as you watch it rise before your eyes. Birds cling to exposed rocks only to be forced alight in minutes; boats float to sea having been formerly on dry ground. Nowhere is this better expressed than at the Tidal Bore Rafting Park along the Shubenacadie River. It seems like a feeble marketing claim, “tidal bore rafting,” since you’re not really rafting at all. An inflatable Zodiac with a 60 horsepower engine takes you up river. Well, ‘river’ in this case appears misleading too as what you see on the Shubenacadie is shallow and muddy.

At high tide, this boat will be fully afloat

Yes, the geology is beautiful and you can clearly see high water marks along the shore, though it seems impossible the water can reach that high. There are bald eagles along the river, 75 to 100 of them, and though you won’t see that many, you will easily spot at least three or four. At one point my guide jumps into the river to demonstrate that the water is only waist high, and on one occasion the motor got stuck with mud. Yeah, real fun. I was taken to a massive mud flat and got out of the boat still unsure of what the hell was not-going on. Then, in the distance, a small wave comes towards me, a feeble thing which packs all the power of a ripple in my bathtub. It’s generated as the tides rise into the Bay of Fundy and work their way up river. The call to get back in the boats means the water is fast approaching and as it gets closer you can see it more clearly, though it’s still unimpressive. But within 10 minutes the mud flat is engulfed in water and the rush of the incoming tide gains strength and power.

It is the collision of the river running out to sea and the sea water running up river which becomes a stunning experience. The singular force of these two bodies of water forced through the narrow canyon slamming into each other creates waves of ten feet, and higher. I grab on to the Zodiac and we plunge head first into the “washing machine,” a spot of consistently harsh waves that crash upon us, one after the other, sheets of muddy water pummeling us mercilessly. We suck down a quick breath in between sheets of water bitch-slapping us; rope burns on our hands, but we manage to hold on. We are drenched and pitiful-looking as bathed cats, a baptism of sorts by Mother Nature herself. We then turn around and head purposefully into another series of waves that push, pull, and drench us, and we laugh like second-graders after too much candy; this is a killer experience. It’s not for the timid: you will be soaked from head to foot with ochre-colored water, it will stain your clothes, your head will be spinning, but you will have an awesome time.

Lulled to Sleep

Therefore sleep is essential. Using Halifax as a base, there are two very cool, though disparate, lodgings that might seduce you into making an hour’s drive. At the Train Station Inn, northeast of Halifax, whimsical meets clever. The inn began in a brick railroad station from 1887. It’s still intact with a few rooms upstairs as well as a gift shop and breakfast area. But the quaint building soon became the lesser sibling when James LaFresne assembled 12 cabooses, all sitting on their rails, and retrofitted them into accommodations. The “rooms” have TVs, coffee makers, a fridge and bathroom. These aren’t luxury accommodations, but they are fun and if the rails are a source of inspiration, or if the romance of a bygone era is appealing, like dining in a 1904 dining car, or sleeping in a box car, you’ll wake up like a well nourished vagabond.

The Train Station Inn

Over looking the Bay of Fundy, the Blomidon Inn in Wolfville, northwest of Halifax, casts an impressive visual as you pull into the driveway. Built in 1883 by a local shipbuilder, the 33 rooms are furnished with mostly original, very Victorian pieces and this former private residence, complete with creaky staircase, is complimented by family-owned hospitality and a desire for guests to experience the glory days of Nova Scotia. Breakfast is included but they also have a fantastic in-house restaurant for lunch and dinner.

The Blomidon Inn

http://www.novascotia.com/

STAY

http://www.trainstation.ca/

http://www.blomidon.ns.ca/

http://www.tidalboreraftingpark.com/

Mother’s Lode: Best B&B’s in Gold Country

2011-03-31T15:42:00.000-07:00

The Sierra Foothills, east of Sacramento, California in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, goes by names like Gold Country and, the Mother Lode. It was gold that initially brought throngs of people here in 1849. These days the old western towns are filled with wine tasting, cavern and mine tours, golfing and river rafting, and historic charm. The rolling oak studded hills and ubiquitous cows meandering the landscape makes it feel like little has changed. In researching my new national travel book, California Wine Country, I spent time at each of these B&Bs and can attest, it was hard to pack up and leave. Each of these lodgings has a unique and personal touch yet are uniformly different in tone and feel. Happy trails!

Traveling south down Highway 49, your first stop is to be Eden Vale Inn (http://www.edenvaleinn.com/). You’re immediately transported to a lush green paradise. This old horse barn has been converted into an upscale, modern rustic retreat using European styling and sophisticated computerized lighting. There is an elegant functionality to the rooms, plenty of footpaths and trails to wander around the property, or row your boat on the little lake. It’s secluded and you won’t hear the rumble of traffic because this isn’t near anything, and that’s part of the allure. Breakfasts include with fresh fruit, baked goods and an entrée.

In Placerville, the Albert Shafsky House Bed & Breakfast (www.shafsky.com) is a three room Victorian built in 1902. Two massive sycamore trees flank the entrance and once inside the wood wainscoting pairs nicely with the warm yellow walls. There are no TVs in the rooms as your stay is meant to relax and rejuvenate and you’re within walking distance of historic downtown Placerville, once known as Hangtown. The bedrooms are large enough for comfort and small enough to be cozy. Breakfasts are terrific. The Shafsky Eggs Benedict is typical of what they do: scrambled eggs on a muffin topped with sautéed veggies, feta cheese and lemon olive oil-marinated tomatoes.

Traveling south from Placerville into the wine region of Fair Play, there is a severe lack of infrastructure. Happily, the Fitzpatrick Lodge (http://www.fitzpatrickwinery.com/) does the trick. A white fir log lodge rises from atop a hill over looking Fair Play’s pine trees. There are no phones in the rooms and no TV’s though there is a communal TV upstairs. The Winemakers suite is the best room, as it has the exposed fir logs, a private deck and lots of space. They have a lap pool located near their vineyard and Wi-Fi is throughout the lodge. Breakfast is made to order from usually four different options. Go for the sherried eggs, a traditional Irish breakfast. Since this is a winery too, you’ll have some ports to sample each night.

Driving south brings you into Amador County and the best known wine region, the Shenandoah Valley, near Sutter Creek. The Amador Harvest Inn, part of Deaver Winery, (http://www.amadorharvestinn.com/) offers a quiet country feel in their four rooms in the heart of wine country. There is a living room with TV and a reading room with a fireplace. The best room, all of which are carpeted for maximum quietness, is the Zinfandel room with its small reading nook with views of the lake. Breakfasts include amazingly moist fresh baked scones, fresh fruit and an egg dish. They can make gluten free breakfasts, just ask. They often incorporate their port wines into their breakfasts, such as glaze on French toast, or lightly mixed in with fruit. You can sit inside the spacious dining room, or outside on the patio and watch the Canadian geese.

Driving into Sutter Creek, the Hanford House (http://www.hanfordhouse.com/) has two buildings right next to each other. The brick building is the dining area and common area with rotating local art, and several traditional rooms with period furniture and décor. But the suites, located in an old house next door, is all modern and cool, a hip interpretation of a B&B with four large rooms decorated with sleek-styling’s in contrast to the original hardwood floors. At the suites, coffee, warm scones and the morning paper are delivered to your room. At 5 p.m. there are local wines and cheeses for guests to sample. The chef prepared breakfasts use eggs from the chickens on the property, after which you can walk to anywhere in town.

The final leg of wine country B&B’s is Murphys, slightly east of Highway 49. Once there, the Dunbar House 1880 (http://www.dunbarhouse.com/) is a four diamond B&B located right downtown, set in a lush garden. Two rooms downstairs and two upstairs means you get privacy. There are fountains at the front and rear of the property so no matter where you go, the sitting room, the garden, the porch, you’ll hear the sound of running water. Once you enter your room you’ll find an appetizer plate, fresh baked cookies, complimentary bottle of local wine, beer and bottled water. The rooms all feature two person Jacuzzi tubs, towel warmers, gas burning fireplaces and antiques. Breakfasts are served by 9 a.m. and two of the rooms have private seating areas on the porch overlooking the gardens.

Thou Shalt Judge: Portugal’s Vinho Verde Awards

2011-03-30T20:56:00.000-07:00

The city of Oporto

From the time I can remember my parents taught me to not judge others (even though they talked smack about our neighbors). And whereas we should be magnanimous towards people and their idiosyncrasies, wine is an entirely different matter. I have been a judge at wine and food events for years and was invited to be the only U.S judge on a 6 member international panel to award the Best of Vinho Verde Awards in Portugal. So this posting is about Portugal’s wines, and a wee bit about what it’s like to judge wine.

At the awards ceremony

Wine has been made in Portugal for centuries, but most people can’t name a single grape from the country, with the exception of port, and that’s not a grape, it’s a city (actually Oporto). But Portugal has several wine regions and among white wines it is known as Vinho Verde located in northern Portugal bordering Spain. Prior to my arrival a group of Portuguese judges rated 300 wines therefore when us fancy international judges showed up (U.S., Canada, Brazil, England, Germany and

Norway

) we only contended with the top 30 wines, eventually awarding the best five. The palettes of the Portuguese and international judges were remarkably similar, and in light of some discussion about wine judges’ having “regional” palettes, we were kinda surprised to see that everyone from diverse backgrounds were in general agreement, and that a bad wine is a bad wine. The awards were presented at the beautiful Palacio da Bolsa, the former stock exchange building and a national landmark built in 1842, with 400 people present, a three course dinner and live music. It was a bit surreal.

Prior to the awards ceremony I spent four days meeting 16 different wine producers and tasted through about 150 wines. What is loosely termed Vinho Verde (literally “green wine”) constitutes the main white and some red wines of Northern Portugal. The name suggests green, but it means “joven” or young; wines meant to be consumed within a year or two. The main white grapes are Alvarinho, Loureiro, Trajadura, Azal, Arinto and Avesso, which sounds more like a misfit group of superheroes, not grapes. Though these grapes make simple wines, to make a good wine is not a simple process. “When the fruit is ripe you have to pick fast or the acidity will drop quickly,” says winemaker Paulo Rodrigues. And that acidity is the fundamental element in Vinho Verde wines. It is what makes these wines so easy to drink, well and the lower alcohol, and the Vinho Verde wines, though white can easily stand up to roast suckling lamb and pig. At Afros, owner Vasco Croft employs biodynamic winemaking to support a small portfolio of wine which has clarity and depth. Quinta de Gomariz is probably the best expression of where the wines of Vinho Verde are heading. The demographics of wine drinkers are changing and these wines reflect minimal residual sugar, lots of acidity and a slight effervescence, making them young, bright and fresh.

Vasco Croft and I discuss biodynamic farming

My judging cubicle

After our tour we were taken to the Comissão de Viticulture da Região dos Vinhos Verdes, the governing body of the wine region, housed in a building overlooking the city of Oporto. People in white lab coats took us to a sterile room with white cubicles to quietly sniff, slurp and spit, and it looked more reminiscent of my yearly physicals than sucking on white wine. Glasses of wine in different categories were presented blind (unidentified) and we rated them directly onto a computer screen, an efficient, but lonely process.

Most wine judging I do are in the context of animated discussions with other members of a small panel, usually a winemaker, restaurant owner, a media-type (like yours truly) or wine distributor. We award medals or points, occasionally argue, re-taste, chew on bread then horse trade, but here solitude was the defining factor. That evening we helped hand out the awards. It was fun, informative and I’d love to get back to

Portugal

. Vinho Verde wines are inexpensive: 2 to 5 Euros in Portugal; $10 and $15 in the U.S. I strongly recommended these and you’ll be immensely pleased with the quality in your glass. Check out Afros, Provam, Quinta de Regueiro, Quinta de Avaleda, and Quinta de Gomariz.

The beautiful Avaleda winery

Albuquerque: Can You Keep It Up?

2011-03-30T12:44:00.000-07:00

It’s safe to say that Albuquerque, New Mexico, is not on most people’s top 10 travel list, maybe not even their top 100. Yet the “Land of Enchantment,” (yes, that’s what they call themselves) is anything but rehashed Southwest scenery and redundant Mexican food. Albuquerque is a surprisingly diverse city offering abundant outdoor and cultural experiences and stunning visuals. Albuquerque is home to parts of iconic Route 66, but there is also the Balloon Fiesta, the International Flamenco Festival and such terrific food that you’ll never look at a chili the same way again.

The Rio Grande River

Albuquerque is an old city, dating from 1706. Hot-air balloons are relatively new and are the big draw. An hour-long balloon ride above the Rio Grande River flanked by the Sandia Mountains is the classic experience. As you lift off the ground you don’t even feel like you’re moving and the ascent is similar to an elevator, a barely noticeable movement. Usually the balloons hug the ground at first to get you acclimated then will float up to about a thousand feet, some climbing even higher. It’s a myth that rides are tranquil and serene. Well, they are actually, with the exception that every two minutes a fierce blast of propane into the balloon is required to keep you buoyant, and everyone can appreciate that.

The views from the Sandia Tramway are totally impressive

The other sky high adventure worth checking out is the Sandia Tramway which transports you from the base of the Sandia Mountains all the way to the pinnacle at over 10,000 feet. The 15 minute enclosed tram ride takes you above the Cibola National Forest where the views from the limestone capped granite are absolutely staggering. On clear days there are 11,000 square miles laid out like a tapestry before you. But the best part is the ride itself where you can see the forested mountains and you’re looking down on 60 foot pine trees and 150 foot tall shards of massive granite rock formations which appear as mere toothpicks as you glide past.

The Acoma Pueblo, home for a 1,000 years

Not as high but just a cool, the Acoma Pueblo is the very first high rise as it were, 376 feet up in the air on a granite table in the middle of a beautiful and remote valley. This American Indian community is the oldest continuously inhabited settlement in all of North America and is believed to have been settled around 1150 AD. The Spanish forcibly took control of the pueblo, and the Indians, as they began dominating the West. That’s why tours start with the Mission church which dates from 1629. Native American’s still live atop this mesa, as they have for nearly a thousand years and the tour takes you through, literally, the backyards of the Acoma Pueblo and its people. You’ll stop every so often so you can buy handmade pottery and water (it can get brutally hot) but the commercial feel of the tours seems in direct contrast with the spiritual nature of the place. A bus drives you up and back to the top of the mesa, but rather than sitting in a bus on the way back, head down the original way; though narrow low cut rocks with finger holds deeply worn into the granite from a thousand years of use. There are supreme visuals here; multi-colored rocks rising up around you with dramatic and jagged edges. It’s a short climb to reach the bottom of the road, about 15 minutes, and it’s not strenuous.

Don't miss these views. Hike down from the Acoma Pueblo.

Killer bison enchiladas!

Back on terra firma, the food in Albuquerque is awesome. The common question asked nearly everywhere you eat is, red or green? What many tourists don’t know is that chilies vary in intensity and heat, from timid to bracingly spicy. Therefore always ask before assuming you have a palette that is immune to Albuquerque’s signature chilies. Hands down El Pinto restaurant is a must stop. Their food is universally excellent, including their chili rellenos where the chilies are dipped in egg white, flash fried and finished in the oven, making them light without the copious breading.

Casa Vieja has the best bison enchiladas and a killer veggie enchilada. And enchiladas in Albuquerque are not rolled, they are layered like a casserole, topped with sunny side up eggs which infiltrate and soak into the enchiladas making them quintessential New Mexico.

Many people still have the hankering to drive Route 66 and Albuquerque has the best preserved piece of roadway. Only a few original emblematic buildings and signs remain like the Hi-Way Motel, the Aztec Motel and

El Vado Court

. But the KiMo Theatre, built in 1927 as a movie house, is where you need to visit as this is the single best preserved piece of Route 66. Seven hand-painted murals adorn the entry, the bison skull light fixtures are original and, unapologetically (and yes, this was pre-Nazi) there are swastika motifs throughout the theatre, an ancient and once positive symbol, forever ruined, so don’t get your panties in a wad when you see them. Ultimately Albuquerque is an oasis in the dessert, a mirage that exceeds its visual promise and a trip you will remember, especially the food!

Interior motifs at the KiMo Theatre

http://www.itsatrip.com/

EAT

El Pinto, http://www.elpinto.com/

Casa Vieja, http://www.casaviejanm.com/

Acoma Pueblo, http://www.skycity.com/

Rainbow Ryders Hot Air Balloons, http://www.rainbowryders.com/

Sandia Peak Tramway, http://www.sandiapeak.com/

Puerto Rico: Rum Running & Dude, Where's My Compass?

2011-03-29T21:05:00.000-07:00

Puerto Rico belongs to the U.S. Maybe you didn’t know that. Part of the allure of traveling here is that English and Spanish are the two official languages, the currency is U.S. dollars, and there’s more to do on this small island than there is in most 50 states.

Puerto Rico has been a part of the U.S. since 1898, when Spain basically said, “Oh the hell with this,” after the Spanish-American war. The issue of statehood comes up every few years and the island wrestles with the idea of becoming the 51^st state, but frankly nobody really does anything about it. Puerto Rico has long been a mix of Spanish, African and Indian cultures. Columbus ran into it in 1492 searching for a passage to the West Indies and mis-labeled and mis-identified the entire area. Today Puerto Rico is home to a majority of American pharmaceutical products, and it’s a destination for cruise ships. There are pockets of cattle ranching and coffee plantations, but most closely associated with Puerto Rico is rum, which has been produced from sugar cane plantations as early as the 1860s.

Bartender flair competition at the Taste of Rum Festival

The Taste of Rum Festival held each Spring is fast becoming the defacto rum and food event in the world. Well, actually it’s the only rum and food event in the world. Held at the old prison (now the tourism department, and yes, the irony is apparent) it’s just steps from San Juan Bay. Rums from the entire Caribbean are represented, along with local food, bands, salsa dancing and a bartender flair competition. Most people think of rum as a mass-produced, high-alcohol brown liquid with a cartoony captain on the label. But rums, like wine, actually have a sense of place – if you drink the good stuff. Aged rums can be spectacular. The sugar cane, water, and barrels all have an impact on how rums taste. Puerto Rican rums for example must be aged a minimum of one year in barrel (they tend to use old bourbon barrels which aid in their complexity). Over 75 percent of all rums consumed in the U.S. are from Puerto Rico. When I visited I went to Serrales (not open to the public, sorry) and was able to blend my own run – not an easy task, but way cool.

What to blend?

When visiting San Juan you can stop by Casa Don Q at the waterfront for a run tasting. Or, across the bay you can visit the Bacardi facility and take their 60-minute tour, which is free, though gimmicky and Disneyland-ish. But best of all, but you’re given two free rum drinks.

Bacardi

A classic sight of the fort

Old San Juan is where most people spend their time while in Puerto Rico and the Spanish Colonial architecture with Art Deco influences, bold color palettes, and narrow cobblestone streets makes this a visual treat. The old section is easy to identify as you’ll see blue colored cobblestoned streets, originally brought over from

Spain

, when the city was first constructed. The defining feature is the Castillo San Felipe del Morro, the original walled foundations that preserved the city from attacks. On the best of days the walk to El Morro is rewarded with the expansive grass in front of the fort populated with kids and adults flying kites, the sky dotted with bursts of color.

The streets of San Juan are alive with color

The fort itself, still standing for over 500 years, is remarkably intact and it’s one of the few places you can touch the walls and feel history. The fort is jaw dropping impressive; massively thick walls which rise up from the bedrock of the island. You can stand in the single manned sentinel towers where the Spanish kept look outs, sit in the church near the main gate and walk the same steps that slaves and freemen walked for hundreds of years. Admission is 3 bucks and if you don't go, I'll personally slap you. San Juan has no stop lights and driving the constricted streets is done by courtesy, but it’s easily walkable so ditch the car and explore on foot.

The Parque de Bombas

But don't limit your visit to the eastern coast. Puerto Rico has a stunning diversity of flat white sandy beaches, tropical rainforests, coffee plantations, caves and zip lines, and is known for their bioluminescent bay, which sadly, I didn’t get to visit. I drove 2 hours to Ponce in the south, the second largest city, through a verdant mountain pass which then drops you off facing the warm Caribbean. In Ponce the Parque de Bombas is the original firehouse, built in 1883, and clearly visible from anywhere with its bright red and black exterior, now a fire museum.

For lunch or dinner try Lola located at the Ramada Inn, and have their signature dish, Filete de Dorado; mahi mahi slathered in a lobster sauce and served with three cheese risotto. Oh yeah!

And speaking of food, while in Puerto Rico you must explore the local foods like mofongo-mashed green plantains usually mixed with beef and served in the large pestle they’re mashed in; bacalaito-thin pieces of deep fried cod; and tostones-another version of smashed green plantains which are deep fried twice and served as chips. Yes, there are places that serve traditional American food, but that’s missing the entire point. In San Juan, The Latin Roots is a restaurant/night club where you can try local foods and take free salsa lessons. Racies dishes up flavorful indigenous food with staff dressed in traditional African clothing. Aqua Via is an excellent seafood restaurant, with fresh fish from the bay and a terrific ceviche sampler. There’s far more to these islands than these smattering of ideas can present. Therefore consider an experience in Puerto Rico. Seriously, you’ll thank me.

http://www.gotopuertorico.com/

EAT

Lola - Ponce, http://www.ramadaponce.com/

Raices - San Juan, http://www.restaurantraices.com/

Agua Via - San Juan, http://www.oofrestaurants.com/

Castillo San Felipe del Morro-San Juan, www.nps.gov/saju