Stepping on History: Crete’s Knossos Palace

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Humans are fascinated by cataclysmic events. The lost city of Atlantis was once an oasis for humanity, an idyllic Shangri La. But of course it was destroyed…somehow. There’s a theory suggesting the Greek islands of Crete and Santorini were once a single island, and home to Atlantis. Allegedly a massive volcanic eruption split Crete and Santorini in two, and sunk Atlantis in the process. There is some geologic evidence of this, but it’s not a foolproof theory. What is foolproof is a visit to the Palace of Knossos on the island of Crete is a must if you’re in the region.

The Palace of Knossos was one of four original palaces built 4,000 years ago as cultural and spiritual hubs across the island. I arrived with the throngs of people to view this amazing complex during the stillness of a hot July day as the sounds of cicadas and peacocks offered a counterpoint to the various languages from visitors all over the world. Approaching the Palace it initially looks unimpressive; just a bunch of large flat stones atop a small mountain. But as you make your way across said flat stones you begin to realize the depth of this multi faceted building, literally. This was a four-story behemoth.

At 22,000 square meters (75,000 square feet) Knossos was built with the sense of proper architecture, order, and a desire to live life in connection with ones surroundings. The King and Queen of Minos ruled here as part of the Minoan Empire and their respective living areas were built to allow air to flow through upper clerestory openings, taking advantage of the mild evenings keeping the ruling couple cool during the hot days. Okay, so they are the rulers and sure, they’re supposed to have the finer things. But hold on. The Minoans on Crete, all of them, had sewage systems, running water, toilets, even central heating over 1,000 years before the Greeks. A nearby stream once flowed, which provided water for the Palace and also took their effluent away.

This staircase is 4,000 years old and you can walk on it

What is mind boggling, and one of a handful of utterly unique experiences in life, is walking stone staircases created four thousand years ago, seeing the clay plumbing pipes, vessels and vases that have withstood the test of time, some partially reconstructed, some still in their original form. Portions of the Palace have been rebuilt, anything over three feet tall won’t be original, and there was a lot of anger in the 1920s when the Palace was partial reconstructed. It disrupted the natural order of things, and by a British archeologist no less, they said. It violates the organic nature of the historical context, and yes that’s partly true. But the small reconstruction also helps us comprehend what the Palace might have looked like and how it functioned. Originally unearthed in the 1880s, the Palace’s most thorough excavation was done by Sir Arthur Evans, who spent 30 years on Crete uncovering the Palace in all its glory; he unearthed 1,500 rooms in total.

As was true then and is true today we seek to beautify and embellish our world and the Palace has visible storage areas, pedestrian thoroughfares, and living quarters with colorful and decorative motifs. Of particular note to me were the winemaking capabilities the Cretans had, the bathtubs and all the needs for a working society. There is an amphitheatre, which many believe is the oldest in Europe. These are ultimately not the remnants of a forgotten society, but a stepping-stone to our current world since all that has come before us impacts on our lives today, even if we don’t readily comprehend it. And that’s the lesson of visiting Knossos; you innately understand that, though 4,000 years have passed, the needs of a society to be remembered, to build not just an architectural marvels, but to construct a society which includes the arts, spiritual and cultural enterprises, is no different than today.

The King's throne room

The Queens room

You can tour the Palace on your own, spending as much time as you wish and signs are in Greek and English. You can hire a private guide who will give you a two-hour history intensive tour, as I did. One is not necessarily better than the other; however a guide will give you insight you won’t have, and answer your questions. If you forgo a guide make certain you do some research in advance to understand the how and the why of the place you are in. The Palace is a modern day museum – a place to ponder how much has changed in the last four millennia, and yet how similar life’s fundamentals are. It was thrilling to be here, to walk across streets that have been traversed for thousands of years by probably thousands of people, and to be part of a continuum of history.

Getting to the Palace

From Heraklion, Crete’s capital, it’s 30-minutes by car. There’s a Knossos Palace city bus, and tour buses, which are full day excursions, which include the Palace as part of a longer itinerary. Admission is €6. 

Arrive early to beat the heat and the crowds, and bring water with you, as there is minimal shade. If you hire a private guide the cost is about €150 and it’s best to hire them in advance via a reputable travel agency not on site. There’s a small gift shop to purchase a walking guide, there’s a café and a few other eateries across the street. The Palace opens at 8 a.m. and closes as early as 3 p.m. and as late as 5 p.m.

Visit the Knossos Palace

4,000 year old clay plumbing pipes...not bad!

 

Only On Oahu Part II: Sharks, Mai Tais & the Family Jewels

 

Honolulu has always been decried as “L.A. on the beach.” Sure, it’s a big city, however Oahu is also an island loaded with many cool things to do which vacillate between the obvious, and the lesser known. Of course there is Pearl Harbor, which includes the Arizona Memorial, as well as the battleship Missouri, which is fascinating because this was where the U.S. and the Japanese signed the treaty to end WWII. Located on the port side of the ship is a plaque commemorating this historic events, as well as additional historical info. But there is much more to consider on Oahu.

DO

The Iolani Palace, downtown Honolulu, was built in 1882 and brags that it’s the only royal residence in the United States. That’s because back in the day Hawaii was ruled by a king. The Hawaiian Kingdoms’ last two ruling monarchs both lived here. The tour is limited; just parts of the two-story interior, but there is a comprehensive museum in the basement.

 



Though the palace is architecturally beautiful from the inside and outside, it’s the museum that really sells this visit. Old photos, state jewels (the Royal Order of Kamehameha Knights Grand Cross and Collar is pictured here), dinnerware, military and ceremonial swords and a history of the odd relationship the Hawaiian Islands have had with everyone. 

From a royal palace to a Buddhist temple, Byodo-In Temple near Kanohe is called the “best kept secret” but once you arrive and see the tourists , well it’s not all that secret. Patterned after an ancient temple in Japan, this baby was built without the use of nails. Start by ringing the 3-ton brass prayer bell. From there the temple can be entered, but it’s meant for quiet reflection, not noisy conversation so turn off your cell phones. There is a small gift shop, koi pond, and beautiful visuals. Is it worth the drive up to the leeward side of the island? I’d say yes if you have something else planned in the vicinity.

The –obviously - great thing about Honolulu is the water – specifically being underwater. I don’t surf, but I do scuba and a wreck dive 120 feet down, just a few miles off the coast of Honolulu with Rainbow Scuba was a fantastic experience. They do everything for you, and guide you down, through, and around the wreck site, in our case a boat from the 1950s. This was my first wreck dive and frankly a whole lotta fun. Plus this water is way warmer than my home in Santa Barbara.

At North Shore Shark Adventures in Haleiwa you can get in a protected cage and hang out with sharks – and you don’t need any special gear. The boat takes you 3 miles out and they will get 6 of you in a (very safe) cage with snorkel equipment, which means you’re barely under the surface, but are close to these fascinating and beautiful animals. Sadly, people demonize sharks, and should you chose to be willfully ignorant, you’ll never understand these creatures (nor anything else in life for that matter). There were four sharks during our 15-minute drop down under the warm Pacific. The sharks won’t hurt you and hanging out with sharks in their home is unbelievably awesome. They do not add chum to the water to attract the sharks, they naturally move to the boat when they hear the hum of the engines.

Wreck diving

EAT

As a restaurant reviewer I’m always looking for authentic food native to where I am. Two picks worth mentioning: Helena's Hawaiian is located in a crappy strip mall and is a small space which has seen better days but the food is terrific and cheap. Butterfish and pork wrapped in poi leaves then steamed gives this an earthy subtle tobacco note. The pork is smoky wonderfully moist and very flavorful. The Pipikaula short ribs are meaty, fatty and rich. You won't find many tourists here and that’s exactly the point, this is excellent traditional Hawaiian food.

As a stark contrast to that, Sushi Sasabune has some of the most incredible sushi I’ve had buy you pay dearly for it. The best option is to go with their 13-course dinner. Yes, 13 courses, but you can stop whenever you like. This is not an order off-the-menu thing (though you can do that) they will bring you what they want and even tell you the preferred way to eat it. Some folks don’t like being told how to eat their food, but when you’re in the hands of a sushi master, don’t argue. We went back the next night too.

DRINK

The Mai Tai is the quintessential drink on the islands: maligned, mocked and most are sticky sweet, weirdly viscous and plied with so many fruit and flowers it looks like a parade. After seeking out every iteration across Honolulu, I had that eureka moment. Located inside the Aston Waikiki Beach Hotel, the 1944 Mai Tai made at Tiki’s Grill & Bar uses Cruzan Estate Light Rum, Myers Dark Rum, Orange Curaçao, Orgeat Syrup and fresh lime juice, then topped with Passion Fruit Foam (made with Licor43 - a Spanish liqueur made of fruit juices and vanilla) passion fruit puree, pasteurized egg whites, and the juice of a lemon. This is killer. You get the mellow rum, a hit of tangy citrus from the juices and the delicate addition of passion fruit seals the deal, adding a flavor dimension, making this mai tai immensely drinkable.

Distilled in downtown Honolulu, made from local island sugar cane, and then filtered through lava rocks, Hawaiian Vodka has a creamy viscosity, a unique sweetness backed by a rich maple, almost rum-like note with a minimal burn and small wisps of mint. The lava, actually a large cube of crushed lava rock, and the copper pot still work their magic to create a very fine and unique version of how cool vodka can be. Currently it’s only available on the islands but will hopefully make its way to the mainland. Distiller Dave Flintstone is having a tough time keeping up with demand. Pick up a bottle locally or ask for it at a bar.

To make your time easier on Oahu consider the Go Oahu card, a valuable asset to get discounts to many traditional activities and sights on Oahu (Iolani Palace, Pearl Harbor and museums) as well as things you may not have thought of. Using it wisely you’ll save yourself some cash. 

For hikes around Honolulu check out my other post On Oahu: HIKING HONOLULU

And Watch my “2 Minute Travel” video I shot On Oahu: ON OAHU VIDEO

The Battleship Missouri at Pearl Harbor

Washington in Winter: Cool Mount Vernon

Mount Vernon, George Washington's impressive Virginia estate, was never on a short list of things to see. But working near the area it seemed like a reasonable way to spend a Sunday afternoon. I went with few expectations - I’m sure it’s “interesting” and filled with dry historical information, right? - but I came away with a deeper, more profound appreciation for the turbulent times our country faced when it was founded; not to mention a huge amount of respect for what our fore-bearers had to contend with, and how they overcame obstacles and created success – and by today’s accounting of humanity, well, I doubt many people now would have succeeded then.

There is a surprising amount of things to do at Mount Vernon, quite frankly a terrific value for the standard $17 admission fee including the grounds, the museum, the rotating exhibits, and the house itself. There’s also a restaurant on site which, though not spectacular, does provide good food at decent prices. If you’re the kind of person who likes to spend money, the extensive gift shop has everything Washington: from kitschy refrigerator magnets to high end tableware and books: lots and lots of books about the man.

I visited in the cool of February when the spectacular gardens were not leafed out, an elegant desolateness to the place, perched on a hill above the Potomac River as if God himself had decreed it should be so. The estate has large wide paths for walking and strolling with plenty of room for strollers and wheelchairs. It's peaceful out here; a softness in the brisk winter breeze when the summer crowds are not yet in full force.

The Slave Cabin

The Potomac opens up before you a vast shimmering soft patch of blue and it’s clear why Washington would have made this patch of heaven his patch of heaven. You can head down to the wharf and stand on the banks of the Potomac, imagining how this river might have been over 200 years ago. Nearby is a slave cabin (Washington had many slaves who were only set free after his death) a small dirt floored cabin holding on average a family of 6. Though this is a replica, it will give you a good feel of the tight, uncomfortable quarters slaves had to live in, all while serving our first president.

Originally at about 8,000 acres, the estate was a land grant from the King of England to the Washington family in 1674 - must be nice to have those kinds of connections, which ironically failed the King ‘round about 1776. The property Washington inherited from his father was a small house which George added to considerably creating the house you visit today, close to what it was like in the 1790s. The parlor, kitchen, Washington’s office, and bedrooms are all on display. Outside there is the smoke house, greenhouse, coach house, farms, livestock, orchards and plantings…well, it goes on and on. In essence Mount Vernon in its day was run like a small corporation: lots of people, lots of buildings, and lots of management of a multitude of businesses including his distillery and farming and fishing operations. Much like today’s presidents, he had money, and lived quite well.

That aside, the best of travel is that unexpected moment when you're blindsided by a stunning sight, the taste of a certain food, a spiritual encounter, or an emotional moment.
At one point while in the last room on the tour - Washington’s office, just after my tour group had filed out - a docent described the transition from Washington’s presidency into actual democracy. Rather than a succession of kings and kingdoms and tedious run-on rule he desired a new form of government. As she mentioned that Washington did not seek absolute power but was concerned about the transition of that power, I became so moved by the simplicity of this altruism, which is the basis for our democracy that I became teary eyed. I told the docent she was making me cry. The docent too gets teary-eyed, as does my wife; three people impacted by the potential of humanity some 200+ years after it occurred. It is one of those moments you cannot script and you cannot expect. Such is the power of visiting a place: the ability of a moment to transcend a mere tourist attraction and embed in you a lasting memory. Washington died in 1799, too young as it turns out, a mere 67, yet leaving a legacy which we hold invaluable if not perhaps a little idolized.

The Liquor Box - empty!

Photos of the interiors are forbidden (yeah, well except for the shot I took of the liquor cabinet - I’m a travel writer, damn it!) but you can shoot anything outside. This is not a high-energy visit, you won’t be slammed with overload and stimulation – this is low key. Your kids can run around on George Washington’s lawn while you sit in a rocking chair pondering the Potomac. The house tours move quickly: 20 minutes when busy, a relaxed 30 minutes when it’s not busy.

But taken in its totality, Mount Vernon is a remarkable experience, one which, if you’re like me, took decades to attend to, but one which I’m glad I finally did.

VISIT MOUNT VERNON HERE

Only On Oahu (Part 1): Hiking Honolulu

Written on the trail at Diamond Head, it's true of hikes - it's true of life

I’m not one to sit around on a wide, sandy beach, a tropical drink in my hand and stare out at the endless ocean. Sure, that’s cool for some and while in Waikiki I see lots of people plant themselves on the beach and never move. So while staying in Waikiki I indulged my need for movement. Trust me, there are plenty more than these local hikes, but these are pretty damn good. What’s fascinating to me is that you’ll see all manner of people on these hikes: short, fat, old, young, some wearing flip flops, some covered from head to foot like there were in the witness protection program. Those who look like they are in the best shape aren’t; and chances are good that some wrinkled little Asian woman will pass you going uphill. Find a pace that works for you and steadily make your way to the best views on Oahu.

The views of Waikiki from the top of Diamond Head

Diamond Head

Diamond Head is the most well-known and most visible crater from the Waikiki area, just a 10 minute drive from downtown. Its profile and name are almost iconic with Oahu. The moderate hike will take you 35 minutes to the top if you’re in reasonable shape and you have a good pace - but it's a workout - you will sweat. Part concrete walkway, part stairs and part rocky trail, the peak is just 761 feet above sea level which might seem unimpressive, but the views from the top are stunning and you can see the rim of the crater behind you. In the immediate distance there is Waikiki and Honolulu; to the east is Maunalua Bay. You need to pay to park – just $5 per car, or like many people, you can park outside this State Park and walk in for just $1. 

The trail at Diamond Head

The trail, full of stairs and switchbacks even a few hundred feet through a tunnel, was built in 1908 as a coastal defensive position. Now this park sees tons of tourists and it’s not uncommon to see buses pull up – which is why early is always better – less heat, more room to check it out. The terrain is rather sparse but if you’re there at the right times of year, you might see whales passing by far below you.

Makapu’u Point and Lighthouse

With easy access to the parking lot off Highway 72, the trail to this Lighthouse is a 40 minute walk on a paved road. Easy enough, right? Well yes, and no. That all depends on the kind of shape you’re in. No shade, heat rising off the blacktop, the only benefits are the breezes you get as you approach the windward side which eases your perspiration. 

The climb is gradual but it’s a climb. But again, the views are amazing. You can’t get down to the lighthouse, but it’s there just below you once you reach the top - its bright red dome contrasting with the endless blue of the ocean. 

The Windward side views from Makapu'u Point

You get sweeping views up the windward side including Manana Island and all across Waimanalo Bay and for my money, since there is less development on the windward side, the views are quintessential Hawaii. You can also view the backside of Koko Crater about half way up the path and clearly see how one portion of the cone has eroded over time. This is the least crowded of these three hikes and certainly the walking portion is not challenging. That falls to Koko…

Koko Crater is one of those hikes which comes with a price tag, and it ain't money. Think of Koko as a free cardio workout with a little breeze and a lot of views. Head to Koko Park and drive to the upper baseball diamond - you'll see all the cars there. The crater looms before and you can make out tiny specks flashing in the sunlight near the top. That’s when you realize those are people who are heading nearly straight up the face of this dead volcano. 

About to ascend Koko

At first the steps look simple enough. Actually “steps” isn't quite accurate – this is an old railway system used originally to haul supplies to the top where another defensive position was set up during World War II - the lonely bunker remnants still guarding the 360 degree views. The railroad ties are uneven, spaced out at peculiar intervals. Some say there are 1,000 steps, some say its closer to 1,100, frankly, after the first few hundred it doesn’t matter. Most people walk it, my wife scrambled it on all fours…well, to each his own. About half way up the railroad ties separate from the ground as they pass over a culvert. It’s not a far drop down, maybe 20 feet, but the fact that you’re already tired and now there are 30 steps over a mild drop with no hand rail doesn’t help. Some people freak, and that doesn’t help either. On my hike one 20-something girl was having a panic attack and it took the help of her friend to make it the 30 steps. Stay focused and keep moving – it’s when you stop and assess your surroundings that you begin to over think it. Frankly, it’s a little harder going down this section as your legs are wobbly and feeble, well, at least mine were. Once you cross the ‘bridge” you’re half way up the face of the crater. But the thing is - everything gets proportionally steeper, therefore, harder. 

Just a partial view from Koko

But hard isn’t the issue once you arrive at the top and you have jaw-dropping views of everything, including other islands and Hanauma Bay is just below you. And you can see past Waikiki and Honolulu as well as the Ko’Olau mountain range is behind you. Every drop of sweat (and there were many) are well spent to get here. There is minimal shade, hardly any at all, and the eroding concrete bunkers at the top are pretty cool. I timed my ascent at 45 minutes – down was longer.

Heading down Koko

As with all of these hikes, morning is best since shade is minimal, so bring a hat, water, sunscreen and a camera. Trust me, after hiking all these spots you’ll feel rather invincible and have an experience of Oahu most people don’t get. Check out this VIDEO ONLY ON OAHU I shot at Koko Crater for some way cool views!
For additional things to do make sure you read Part II of this post: ONLY ON OAHU: Sharks, Mai Tais & The Family Jewels

This sign at Koko sums up all Oahu hikes: Be Careful!

Knoxville: Brews & Bikes

Knoxville, Tennessee has had its share of hard knocks over the years, but this old city of 170,000 people is finding new life with micro breweries, unusual bars and outdoor activities to help you burn off what you’ve just consumed. I visited in November, when the leaves had turned colors, the chill of the air kept you moving at full speed, and the inside of a warm bar made the end of the day just about perfect.

Brews

There are three micro-breweries in downtown Knoxville including Downtown Grill & Brewery. The brew pub and restaurant is immensely popular and they offer a diverse food menu, typical bar fare, though it's quite good. They brew an amazing 7,000 pints weekly which constitutes eight different ales and frankly demand is so high they can barely keep up as it is, and it's packed even on off nights. Their beers uniformly present hoppier notes from their Alt to their stouts. They source their grain from Germany and England and they are one of the few to have their copper tanks, not sequestered behind glass, but out in the open.

Saw Works Brewing Company is the near opposite open far fewer hours preferring instead to get their beers on taps around the region. "We're trying to be Knoxville's beer," co-owner Adam Palmer tells me. They are located in what used to be, not surprising, a saw sharpening and finishing shop. The focus is English style ales therefore English grains and rye malts are their base and brew up mainstays and a few seasonals. I really liked their double chocolate porter and their dirty south brown, both nicely balanced with a creamy viscosity. But what also makes this spot unique is their Beers and Steers program. The brewery has partnered with Century Harvest Farms and owner Chris Burger (no seriously, that’s his name) who raises grass fed beef which can be ordered and picked up at the brewery on special nights, which also gives beef-loving customers special pricing on growlers. I love this idea.

Smoky Mountain Brewery takes a different approach to their brews with Munich style lagers. They make beer for Copper Cellars and Calhoun’s (a great barbeque spot) and their beers are clean, smooth and crisp in part because he does all his fermentation in tank which keeps the brews fresh and clean with a slight carbonation. I really liked the Velas Helles and Thunder Road Pilsner, two styles I don’t normally appreciate, but which turn out beautifully balanced. They craft eight mainstay beers, seasonals and IPA’s and other specialty brews.

There are other beer spots like The Casual Pint and Suttree’s, both of whom do not brew but do carry local, regional and national craft beers on tap and in bottle. Overall in Knoxville pints run about $4 and growler refills about $9. Suttree’s also offers a solid selection of local whiskey mainly from Tennessee and Kentucky. Just up the road is Boyd’s Jig & Reel who are compulsive about their 218 Scottish single malt whisky’s. This musical pub offers live music and food and even if you don’t have Scottish roots, if you love whisky, come here and you can sample more single malts that almost anyplace on the east coast.

Bikes
What’s surprising about Knoxville is that within two miles of downtown you have access to 1,000 acres of wilderness to mountain bike, hike, trail run and miles of the Tennessee River to go fishing or canoeing. The land comprising this urban wilderness is a joint partnership with the City, State, Federal government and private landowners, and that right there is stunning. The adopted motto of the urban wilderness is, “No child left inside,” and with tons of protected fields, meadows, hills and trails, not to mention three Civil War forts, and two Civil War battlefields on this land, this really is a playground in the middle of the city. The outdoors called me so I grabbed a bike from River Sports Outfitters and hit the trails. With the damp fall foliage covering the roots of the trees you’re bunny hopping a lot, probably with a few kick-outs. The single track is not overly technical but it does have enough turns and hills to keep you paying attention. I did have one gravity check, but no biggie, frankly it’s a badge of honor…I guess. And a visit to the abandoned Ross Marble Quarry is a must. You can easily hike or bike to it, and this moss covered quarry needs to be explored on foot. Stairs lead down to what looks like urban Mayan ruins, the large blocks of stone still bearing quarry marks. It’s eerie as well as archaic; a funky, odd spot with an unusual beauty.

Ross Marble Quarry

Knoxville is growing up and the downtown core is getting’ revitalized. So if the Smoky Mountains are calling or the fishing along the Tennessee River or the 1,000 acres of urban wilderness, or even some damn fine authentic biscuits and gravy are pulling you towards east Tennessee, make it a point to get a pint in Knoxville.

VISIT KNOXVILLE

Las Cruces: Cross Roads in New Mexico

Las Cruces means “the crosses” and though no one can tell you exactly why it’s called that, this southern New Mexico city is home to the While Sands National Monument, and Missile Park, the Chile Pepper Institute, the rugged Organ Mountains, classic New Mexican food, and local chile-spiked booze.

White Sands National Monument & White Sands Missile Park

Imagine 275 square miles of soft white sand undulating dunes, punctuated by scraggy brush, cottonwood trees, and piercing cloud-laden skies. For a mere $3 pass (which will last you six days) you can visit the albino-looking White Sands National Monument, one of our national parks, just east of Las Cruces. The gypsum dunes here are the largest ones in the world and are at once static and thriving, blissfully quiet and carrying the echoes of sounds on the wind. 

This is a sparse, moon-like, ever evolving landscape. The winds in this desert region blow the sands southwest to northeast, up to a rate of 30 feet each year, which means the dunes are in a constant state of evolution. There are morning and twilight ranger-led walks, full moon walks, and you can even go sledding on the desert dunes. There are indigenous animals and plants here, and it’s not uncommon for drones and other aircraft to fly over your head. Why?

Because down the road is the White Sands Missile Range Museum and Missile Park. You’ll need your drivers’ license to get on this active military base since they conduct 300 tests annually, but the museum and park are absolutely free. White Sands is a total of 2.2 million acres (the National Monument sits inside White Sands). These are missile testing grounds therefore everything above these 2.2 million acres, from an inch off the ground all the way to infinity and beyond is restricted to commercial air traffic and highly controlled. The only other place in the U.S. which has this distinction is the air space over the White House. Missile Park includes an indoor museum chronicling military tests and the technology created to make missiles and rockets, and it also chronicles this area’s first inhabitants, the American Indians. 

At the outdoor Missile Park you’ll see rockets like the German V2, Patriot missiles, Sidewinders, a Pershing, and even a Howitzer, and you can stand right next to them, in awe of these amazing machines. White Sands also has on its base (only open to the public twice a year), Trinity, the site where the atomic bomb was first tested. You may think a missile range isn’t worth visiting because it reflects war. But that’s exactly why you should visit. War is horrible but sometimes necessary and if nothing else, the take away here is the reminder of our men and women who defend our country so that we can have the freedom to visit White Sands in the first place. I strongly recommend it.

Captured German V2 rocket, post WWII

Feel the Heat: Chile Pepper Central

It’s hot in Las Cruces, but even hotter at the
Chile Pepper Institute (part of New Mexico University) the only one of its kind of program in the world devoted to chilies and they have a breeding program…no really. There are 218 varieties of peppers grown here (including sweet bell, habanero, Hatch and others) in their demonstration garden including 35 peppers that have been grown in New Mexico for over a century. Contrary to misconceptions, you cannot tell how hot a pepper is from the exterior. The capsicum is located on the inside of the pods and trust me, you don’t want the oil on your hands, or anywhere else on your body for that matter.

The CPI grows the Trinidad Moruga Scorpion, an unassuming little red pepper the size of a ping pong ball, which is currently the hottest chile in the world blowing out the Ghost Pepper with a stunning 2 million Scoville units (the measurement used to determine heat). Guided tours last an hour and are $15, or you can wander about on your own for free. Seeds in the gift shop sell for $3 per package and there are cookbooks, clothing, posters; all things chile. Chiles are big in Las Cruces restaurants too, from Hatch green chiles stuffed with cheddar cheese, then breaded with crushed pecans at sports bars like The Game, to green chile beer and green Chile Chicken Lasagna both at De La Vega’s, to the Double Eagle restaurants’ filet mignon wrapped with bacon and, yep, green chile. The Double Eagle, a Victorian era restaurant with its own ghosts stories (and chairs but you have to ask about that when you visit), is located in nearby Mesilla and they were one of the first to offer green chile-infused vodka. It’s potent (I had it straight) but worth trying. As a side note, a few doors down from the Double Eagle is where Billy the Kid was held in jail.

At the Chile Pepper Institute

Peppers are also ubiquitous at the Annual Salsa Festival, held each August. When I first heard about this festival I thought I might skip it. I’m glad I didn’t. You can sample and vote on 20 different salsas, everything from Gazpacho cucumber and mint; to mango and pineapple salsa; to spicy habanero; and chunky avocado, tomato, bean, and corn iterations. For a measly $5 you’ll get a bowl of chips to dip and more salsa than you’ve ever had at one sitting. There are craft vendors, food, live music, and the best dressed Chihuahua contest (sorry I missed that part; Chihuahuas are funny looking without clothes). So stay sunny and consider a visit to Las Cruces for a surprising take on regional foods, and a peak into history. Check out Las Cruces Here!

Please watch this short video I shot at the White Sands Missile Park: WHITE SANDS MISSILE PARK VIDEO

View of the Organ Mountains at sunset from my room at the Hotel Encanto de Las Cruces

Fancy Footwork: Flamenco Struts its Stuff

Olga Pericet

Flamenco, the dance, takes its name from the bird flamingo, though it seems to have little correlation with any winged creature. Some think it’s a Mexican dance, but its origins come from southern Spain, with aspects of Moorish, Persian and gypsy cultures tightly woven together. And even though the dance is old, flamenco scholars (yes, there are some) have pegged 1820-1830 as the “birth” of what we now know as flamenco. Oddly, much about the history of the dance is still in dispute, but nonetheless, what is seen and heard on stage today will capture your imagination. I certainly did to me and now I love watching this vibrant, amazing dance. The Flamenco Festival is held each year in Albuquerque, New Mexico. Surprised? Considering the synthesis of cultures in Albuquerque - represented by Spanish, Mexican, and even American Indian, and the city’s deep desire to support cultural heritage, it’s no wonder the best Flamenco dancers in the world come here to teach and to entertain during a week long celebration of all things Flamenco.

Albuquerque provides a great backdrop to visit the festival, with plenty of museums (consider the Anderson-Abruzzo International Balloon Museum), chili topped food (El Pinto is terrific) and plenty of culturally significant things to see and do (consider visiting the Acoma Pueblo – the oldest continuously inhabited settlement in North America). Evening performances run every night of the festival, and by day hundreds of eager dancers, some novices, some seasoned, some perhaps rusty, don tattered clothes and fill the Carlisle Gym on the University of New Mexico campus, just off historic Route 66 to dance their way into a shared visceral experience.

Understanding Flamenco

Flamenco is probably the most versatile and multi-faceted dance there is. It is at once a dance and a synthesis of music, including dancers and musicians. But Flamenco is also playful; dancers interact with the audience, and with the others on stage; truly a collaborative effort. Obviously the dance is the focal point, but there is singing, the guitar and the palmas (rhythmic clapping) - layers of artistry at work, each contributing to the overall experience. And Flamenco also has a diversity of styles, from traditional to modern stylistic approaches with elements of improvisation. The word you hear most often associated with Flamenco is “passion.” But the liberating aspects of Flamenco are more than passion, they are primal, eternal, and they are timeless. I need to mention about the singing, as some people don’t understand it. There is often a sorrow in the singing, which translates to an almost crying when you hear it, a sad convulsing type of sound.

Rafael Campallo

Watching Flamenco

There are no traditional “strong male/weak female” roles as you see in other dances. What I love about Flamenco is that there is confidence and assertiveness, sexuality and sensuality by both men and women. Group dances of necessity are choreographed, but solo and duo performances contain plenty of improvisation. An example of this was when renowned dancer Adela Campallo lost her hair clip during a frenzied moment at the 2012 festival. Realizing it was dead center on stage, (the audience too was keenly aware) she gracefully maneuvered herself into position, picked it up, incorporated it into her dance and put it back in her hair without breaking her staccato movement, and to the thunderous applause of the audience. Solo performances like hers can run as long as 20 minutes, a physical challenge for any dancer and a drain on legs and feet, however the complete submersion into the dance, the near hypnotic dedication is fascinating to watch.

Alfonso Losa

Learning Flamenco

Joaquin Encinias, Associate Director of the National Institute of Flamenco, started dancing when he was four. During the festival he teaches classes including one for beginners, showing them the basics, offering the most comprehensive method of Flamenco instruction in the country. “Flamenco is the study of music, nuance and culture as much as it is a study of movement,” he tells me during a break. “It’s a deeper experience that I think a lot of Americans are starving for,” he says. Ricardo Anglada has been teaching guitar for four years at the festival and tells me that the guitar, though now the primary musical instrument, was introduced to Flamenco after singing and palmas made their way into the dance. “That’s the beauty of Flamenco, it’s always changing and it adapts to other styles,” he says. “Flamenco today is more versed in musical variations, incorporating elements of jazz and blues,” he tells me. And this was clearly evidenced on stage, where there is a freedom of musical expressions. But mainly people come to see and feel the dancing which is both fluid and staccato, aggressive and graceful, powerful yet lyrical. And the beauty of the festival is that it allows anyone to learn. When I mention to one teacher that I’m a middle aged, slightly heavy-set male who is enthusiastically intrigued by Flamenco, she interrupts me. “You’re never too old and never too heavy,” she retorts. “I’ve seen heavy gypsies’ who will amaze you.” (I guess that was something of a compliment.)

Perhaps Flamenco is beckoning you. Perhaps you see in the dance a longing reflected in your own soul. And then, who knows, you might find yourself in Albuquerque at the Carlisle Gym with dancers from across the globe exploring an art form as old as time and as vibrant as today. National Institute of Flamenco

Check out my exclusive video I shot at one of the performances. Cameras are not allowed during performances, though I was permitted to film. This 6 minute video is a rare chance to see what you’re missing:Exclusive Highlights of the Albuquerque Flamenco Festival